AEM Receives U.S. Patent For Its V2 Air Induction Systems!

Hawthorne, CA, November 29th, 2005—AEM is proud to announce that the United States Patent Office has issued a patent for the company’s V2 Air Induction Systems! Patents are issued for innovative, unique concepts for which no prior art of a design or innovation exists.

AEM’s V2 Air Induction Systems received US Patent number 6,959,679. The dual chamber design of this system creates multiple frequency sound waves, delivering a primary sound wave that coincides with valve events at low- and mid-RPM, and a secondary sound wave that coincides with valve events at higher RPM as the primary sound wave falls out of sync. This means that AEM’s V2 intake systems are able to create more torque and horsepower across the entire RPM range over single chamber intake systems alone, and are the only intake systems that will outperform AEM’s legendary Cold Air systems.

All AEM V2 Induction systems are made from lightweight aircraft aluminum with high-strength TIG-welded brackets and fittings, include a DRYFLOW performance air filter that filters at 99.4% efficiency and never requires filter oil, and come with complete hardware and comprehensive instructions. All AEM V2 Induction systems are C.A.R.B.-exempt (50-State Legal).

AEM performance products are Engineered to Outperform. The company manufactures street and race performance products that are unmatched in performance, quality and value. AEM headquarters is located in Hawthorne, CA.

Toyo Proxes RA1 Usage Guide

Here are a few basic pointers to using the Toyo RA1 DOT Race Tire:

The RA1 comes molded at 8/32 of rubber, which is quite a bit of rubber for a race tire. There are two reasons for shaving. The first reason is make the tread blocks shorter. This keeps the tread from rolling over during cornering and building up too much heat. (Which can lead to chunking) This can contribute to making the car feel unstable and loose. The second reason to shave is to make the tire faster sooner. By cutting the tread down it makes the tire more responsive immediately and strangely enough also helps the tire last longer. How much to cut depends on which type of driving you intend to do.

The common shave for a full race set-up is at least 4/32. For Track day events we recommend at least 6/32 shave. If you plan on using them for everyday summer driving, then leave them full skid. It is important to leave the tires with as much tread as possible for street driving in case of rain. (FYI: Full tread RA1's are used as rain tires in competition.)

The Toyo RA1 unlike most compound tires doesn't require the tire to be heat cycled. You can mount them up and just run on them. . One characteristic of the RA1 is that unless you shave them to very shallow depths, the tires do take time to run in. Meaning that that if buy a set at full skid, they will not be as fast as they will be when they wear down to 4/32 and etc.

The RA1 remains consistent during the life span of the tire and in most cases becomes even faster as they wear. One more thing, the RA1 wears like no other tire on the market. Compared to other compound tires, the RA1 should give you a minimum of 2-3 times the wear compared to other compound tires and even UHP Street tires.

Tire pressures should be started at about 32psi cold. You shouldn't see more than a 5-7 psi gain during a run. You should end up in the high 30's to low 40's. If you take tire temps, the normal operating range of the RA1 is 160-220 degrees. These numbers are arrived at with a properly set-up car in mind. Outside temperatures may make it difficult to hit these numbers, but in general these are temps you should be seeing if you have a properly set-up car.

One mistake people make is thinking that if they just mount up a set of new race rubber they will be faster. This may be true in some case and in others they may seem to make no difference. The reason for this is all race tires need to have camber adjustments made to get the optimum level of grip they can provide. Without this adjustment the tires though stickier, may not work at their best.

If you have camber plates you will be able to get the most from the RA1 and any other compound tire. To get the tire to work to its maximum, you need to dial in at least 2 deg of negative camber in the front. If you have camber plates then dial in more, say upwards of 3 deg negative. (Toyo recommends between E to E deg) This is required to get the car to handle. All the other temps and pressures gains depend upon getting this setting correct. If you see wild pressure gains or temps it is probably due to a bad set-up. The tire only reflects the set-up used on the car and the driving style used by the driver. 99% of the time it is not the tires fault, but they get 99% of the blame for an ill handling or over aggressive driver.

You can adjust most cars in stock form to get more negative camber, but it is limited. The drawback to doing this on a street car is you will wear the tires out very fast. To get the most life out of the Toyo RA1 you need to take care of them. First thing is if you notice one of the shoulders is wearing more quickly than the other, you need take it and have it flipped on the wheel. When it gets about half worn that is time to flip. This will greatly increase the life of the tire and even out the wear. (FYI: RA1's are only directional when used as rain tires. Once shaved, or worn down, you can run them in any direction you choose.)

Next, when driving with these tires in competition, try not to overheat them in the initial run. If you feel the tires are getting a little greasy, take a trip down the pit lane, this will allow the tires to cool just enough to continue on. One note on driving, the RA1 is not as prone to flat spotting under heavy braking as other race tires; additionally it is a very forgiving tire, allowing the driver a chance to save the car if he loses control, unlike most compound tires.

When storing the tires for the winter or off-season follow these simple steps. Try to keep them stored in a temperature above freezing, ideally indoors with low humidity. Take the RA1's off and put them in plastic bags for storage. Keep them dry and out of the sun and heat. Race tires are very sensitive to extreme weather, be it hot or cold.

If you follow these simple guidelines you should get the performance advantages of having an R compound tire on your car. As with most guidelines, not all things work for all driving styles and conditions. These suggestions come from our over 20 years of race tire sales and support. When making adjustments based on these suggestions, please make them in small increments. I.E. don't go from 32 psi to 40psi. No more than 2 psi increments. Same for camber adjustments. Good luck.

Car Decals for Mitsubishi Evolution

Decals EMore and more Evo's started showing up at the autocrosses and I wanted the car to stand out from the crowd. Plus I wanted to draw attention to my sponsor EExtreme Performance. I also learned after my first National event that each car has to run several series sponsor decals at each event. I didn't want to have to keep applying and removing them at each event so I decided to incorporate them into the scheme of the car. I always liked the look of the Alfa Romeo 155 touring cars, another red 4 door, so I copied their scheme - red car, white logo, black wheels and rocker panels, etc. GraphTech in San Bruno did a great job making and installing all the graphics.

Joe250's Lancer Evolution

The Extreme Performance Evo 8 started out as a weekend toy.I bought the car to drive on the back roads and do the occasional autocross.That changed once I competed in the car the first time.Just two weeks after I bought it, I took it to a local autocross and I realized the Evo was just made to autocross. I had so much fun racing over the next few weekends I decided to compete seriously for the 2004 season.

I ran into an old friend and fellow autocrosser, Navid Kahangi. He wanted to co-drive the Evo and his shop in San Jose, Extreme Performance, would handle all the setup and mods to the car.Navid drove his own M3 race car to an overall win at the 12 Hours of Thunderhill race the other year, so he knows setup and how to drive.

We are running the car in the SCCA Solo2 autocross series. The class is Street Prepared, which allows for some of the common mods enthusiasts make to their street cars Exhaust, suspension, wheels, etc.

Check out his Mitsuishi Evolution car!!!

Carbon Fiber License Plate Frame: Mitsubishi Evolution 2003-Up

Add a touch of carbon fiber flair with Carbign Craft’s Dry Carbon Rear License Plate Frames. The “2k” Carbon Fiber weave brings an exotic European racing look while impressing the drivers behind your car. Each Carbign Craft License Plate Frame is designed for perfect fitment and utilizes fade resistant epoxy coating to reduce the effects of UV light.

DC Sports Introduces Evo VIII Turbo Manifold!

June 3rd, 2004, Hawthorne, CA—DC Sports proudly announces the release of its Turbo Manifold for the 2003-05 Mitsubishi Evo VIII (part number MTM6007B)! DC Sports Turbo Manifolds are dyno tested for all out performance for racing applications only. Extensive research and development goes into each component to ensure the best performance for your vehicle. DC Sports Turbo Manifolds and Competition Pipes are precision bent on our CNC mandrel benders using data acquired from our non-contact digitizing scanner. Our flanges are CNC machined, we machine-grind the flange- mating surface to ensure a leak-free seal and use a robotic welder to attach the flange to the header pipes. Our state-of-the-art manufacturing process ensures superior quality and a perfect fit with every header system we make. DC Sports Turbo manifolds are available in 100% T-304-stainless steel only, and are for use on Off-Road vehicles only. Turbo Manifold and Competition Pipe Key Features: Tuned for all-out performance for Racing applications only Eliminates catalytic converter(s) (Up and Down Pipes) NOT C.A.R.B. exempt CAD-rendered design eases installation 100% T-304 Stainless steel construction CNC mandrel bends with robotically-welded fittings deliver perfect fit Includes comprehensive instructions and all necessary hardware Turbo manifolds are competition pipes are NOT C.A.R.B. exempt DC Sports performance products are Engineered to Outperform. The company manufactures street and race performance products that are unmatched in performance, quality and value. DC Sports is an AEM performance brand and is headquartered in Hawthorne, CA.

Tint Your Lancer Evolution

As one of the leading solar control films today, COOL N LiTE™ shields you from the sun with classic shades that prolong the life of your car's interior. With the film’s super heat reduction properties, it minimizes the working load of your air-conditioner, thus extending the life of your car's air-conditioning and optimizing your automobile's driving performance.

The sun’s heat and damaging ultraviolet are the main causes of passenger discomfort and premature aging of your car’s interior. By rejecting up to 63 percent of the sun’s total solar energy and blocking almost 100 percent of damaging and harmful ultraviolet, COOL N LiTE™ window films function just like a sunscreen—shielding you and your car from the sun’s damaging effects.

Before

After

Illumi Engine Starter Switch

Change your starter switch to a push button type like those used in racecars.

Illumination	Lamp emits highly luminous LED.
Switch	Just open a φ22mm hole for easy installation.
Easy-to-Install	Easy-to-install harness for turbo timers complete with couplers connected (possible to wire directly)
Can be used	Possible to use together with remote control starter and / or turbo timer.
·High-capacity 30A relay for starter.

ILLUMI STARTER
ISK-L (Blue Illumination)
ISK-R (Red Illumination)

Pivot Sound - Improve The Quality Of Your Car's Audio Sound

Car audio sound quality is easily influenced by changes in voltage and the electrical discharge speed of the battery cannot keep up with the flashing speed of flux in music signals. With this in mind, Raizin Sound has been designed specifically to improve the quality of your car's audio sound by increasing the electrical discharge response speed to the match the audio condenser circuitry, offering a stable supply of voltage, and further by reducing noise.















·Our voltage stabilizer, having been designed for car audio, not only greatly cuts noise, but the stabilized voltage supply to each unit brings you higher quality audio sound.

·Brings you vivid trebles and mediants, as well as, more resonant bass sounds.

·Outstanding results for both standard audio and full component audio.

Specifications
·For use with DC12V.
·Condenser Capacity=20,000μF
·Voltage Resistance=40V
·Protection Circuit=15A×2fuze
·Case Heat Resistance=140°C
·Waterproof＝Silicone Waterproofing Seal

Brings Out 100% of Your Ignition Coil's Performance

Until now, due to various types of load resistance and interference at the contact terminals, fuses, contact points and cords in the electric circuitry on the way to the ignition coil, major loss occurred and optimum combustion did not take place. To help solve this the Raizin Spark utilizes a new approach in voltage stabilizer devices for ignition coils that brings out 100% of your ignition's performance by providing point blank power to the ignition coil via connection to our specially designed circuitry. This in turn gives you dramatic improvement in engine performance from optimum ignition to ideal combustion.

Type S Red Raizin

Easy-installation to connect the interior fuse box. Type S can be easily wired by a one-touch connection to the interior fuse box (ignition). It is also possible to switch the power between +B (normal power) and IG+ to match your car model setup. Moreover, peace of mind comes in knowing that the unit is equipped with a delay circuit to avoid trouble caused by power bursts during battery recharging when using IG+ ON. Newly Designed Honeycomb Condenser. Our exclusive newly designed condenser, which includes honeycomb shapes in various places, has superior frequency response characteristics that help to bring about incredible noise reduction and results in more stabilized voltage, as well as, achieves both optimum high frequency wave responsivity and improvement in electrical capacitance.

Interior Installation.

NOTE 1.There are some model cars for which this product cannot be connected, has not been checked for wiring compatibility or for which due to the carÕs wiring there was a lack of results. 2.Please do not attempt to connect a similar product in the same way as our product, or install this product to a car for which the product is not compatible. Doing so may cause damage to your carÕs parts.

Type V Yellow Raizin

Easy-installation with couplers connected. The installation is easy and does not allow for wiring mistakes. Simply connect by inserting the supplied coupler to the standard coupler and then connect to the battery. Model Specificity ensures Proven Perfect Ignition Tuning. Type V has been designed to allow for an even closer connection to the ignition coil than Type S, so that even a higher level of performance and flawless ignition coil voltage stabilization could be achieved. And because power and earth are handled from the battery there is no wiring loss that results in flawless ignition firing every time. Nothing more can be done in the Name of High Performance. To bring about the best results in voltage stabilization, we added stabilizing circuitry and dual relays and thick cables to connect the ignition coil to the battery at the shortest distance. This combined with the taking of earth directly from the battery has resulted clear improvements in performance, including almost no loss of voltage, a reduction in pulse noise, and a rise in voltage. Moreover, the waterproof coating and the internal fuse give you the safety and stability you need.

Engine room Installation.

Currently, the only model of car that is supported is SUBARU (some of IMPREZA and LEGACY and FORESTER), but additions are planned to made as required.

Mineral or Synthetic Engine Oil?

Mineral or Synthetic

Mineral oils are based on oil that comes from dear old Mother Earth which has been refined. Synthetic oils are entirely concocted by chemists wearing white lab coats in oil company laboratories. For more info, see the section on synthetics further down the page. The only other type is semi-synthetic, sometimes called premium, which is a blend of the two. It is safe to mix the different types, but it's wiser to switch completely to a new type rather than mixing.
A couple of words of warning:

* If you've been driving around with mineral oil in your engine for years, don't switch to synthetic oil without preparation. Synthetic oils have been known to dislodge the baked-on deposits from mineral oils and leave them floating around your engine - not good. I learned this lesson the hard way! It's wise to use a flushing oil first.
* If you do decide to change, only go up the scale. If you've been running around on synthetic, don't change down to a mineral-based oil - your engine might not be able to cope with the degradation in lubrication. Consequently, if you've been using mineral oil, try a semi or a full synthetic oil. By degradation, I'm speaking of the wear tolerances that an engine develops based on the oil that it's using. Thicker mineral oils mean thicker layers of oil coating the moving parts (by microns though). Switching to a thinner synthetic oil can cause piston rings to leak and in some very rare cases, piston slap or crank vibration.
* Gaskets and seals! With the makeup of synthetic oils being different from mineral oils, mineral-oil-soaked gaskets and seals have been known to leak when exposed to synthetic oils. Perhaps not that common an occurrence, but worth bearing in mind nevertheless.
Synthetics

Despite their name, most synthetic derived motor oils (ie Mobil 1, Castrol Formula RS etc ) are actually derived from mineral oils - they are mostly Polyalphaolifins and these come from the purest part of the mineral oil refraction process, the gas. PAO oils will mix with normal mineral oils which means Joe public can add synthetic to his mineral, or mineral to his synthetic without his car engine seizing up. The most stable bases are polyol-ester (not polyester, you fool). When I say 'stable' I mean 'less likely to react adversely with other compounds.' Synthetic oil bases tend not to contain reactive carbon atoms for this reason. Reactive carbon has a tendency to combine with oxygen creating an acid. As you can imagine, in an oil, this would be A Bad Thing. So think of synthetic oils as custom-built oils. They're designed to do the job efficiently but without any of the excess baggage that can accompany mineral based oils.

Pure synthetics

Pure synthetic oils (polyalkyleneglycol) are the types used almost exclusively within the industrial sector in polyglycol gearbox oils for heavily loaded gearboxes. These are typically concocted by intelligent blokes in white lab coats. These chaps break apart the molecules that make up a variety of substances, like vegetable and animal oils, and then recombine the individual atoms that make up those molecules to build new, synthetic molecules. This process allows the chemists to actually "fine tune" the molecules as they build them. Clever stuff. But Polyglycols don't mix with normal mineral oils.

A Subset Of Tyre Construction : Tyre tread

You thought tread was the shape of the rubber blocks around the outside of your tyre didn't you? Well it is, but it's also so much more. The proper choice of tread design for a specific application can mean the difference between a comfortable, quiet ride, and a piss poor excuse for a tyre that leaves you feeling exhausted whenever you get out of your car.
A proper tread design improves traction, improves handling and increases Durability. It also has a direct effect on ride comfort, noise level and fuel efficiency. Believe it or not, each part of the tread of your tyre has a different name, and a different function and effect on the overall tyre. Your tyres might not have all these features, but here's a rundown of what they look like, what they're called and why the tyre manufacturers spend millions each year fiddling with all this stuff.








Sipes are the small, slit-like grooves in the tread blocks that allow the blocks to flex. This added flexibility increases traction by creating an additional biting edge. Sipes are especially helpful on ice, light snow and loose dirt.

Grooves create voids for better water channeling on wet road surfaces (like the Aquachannel tyres below). Grooves are the most efficient way of channeling water from in front of the tyres to behind it. By designing grooves circumferentially, water has less distance to be channeled.

Blocks are the segments that make up the majority of a tyre's tread. Their primary function is to provide traction.

Ribs are the straight-lined row of blocks that create a circumferential contact "band."

Dimples are the indentations in the tread, normally towards the outer edge of the tyre. They improve cooling.

Shoulders provide continuous contact with the road while maneuvering. The shoulders wrap slightly over the inner and outer sidewall of a tyre.

The Void Ratio is the amount of open space in the tread. A low void ratio means a tyre has more rubber is in contact with the road. A high void ratio increases the ability to drain water. Sports, dry-weather and high performance tyres have a low void ratio for grip and traction. Wet-weather and snow tyres have high void ratios.

So How Often Should I Change My Oil?

You can never change your engine oil too frequently. The more you do it, the longer the engine will last. The whole debate about exactly when you change your oil is somewhat of a grey area. Manufacturers tell you every 10,000 miles or so. Your mate with a classic car tells you every 3,000 miles. Ole' Bob with the bad breath who drives a truck tells you he's never once changed the oil in his car. Fact is, large quantities of water are produced by the normal combustion process and, depending on engine wear, some of it gets into the crank case. If you have a good crank case breathing system it gets removed from there PDQ, but even so, in cold weather a lot of condensation will take place. This is bad enough in itself, since water is not noted for its lubrication qualities in an engine, but even worse, that water dissolves any nitrates formed during the combustion process. If my memory of chemistry serves me right, that leaves you with a mixture of Nitric (HNO3) and Nitrous (HNO2) acid circulating round your engine! So not only do you suffer a high rate of wear at start-up and when the engine is cold, you suffer a high rate of subsequent corrosion during normal running or even when stationary.

The point I'm trying to make is that the optimum time for changing oil ought to be related to a number of factors, of which distance travelled is probably one of the least important in most cases. Here is my selection in rough order of importance:

1. Number of cold starts (more condensation in a cold engine)
2. Ambient temperature (how long before warm enough to stop serious condensation)
3. Effectiveness of crank case scavenging (more of that anon)
4. State of wear of the engine (piston blow-by multiplies the problem)
5. Accuracy of carburation during warm-up period (extra gook produced)
6. Distance travelled (well, lets get that one out of the way)

If you were clever (or anal) enough, you could probably come up with a really clever formula incorporating all those factors. However, I would give 1, 2, and 3 equal top weighting. Items 1 to 3 have to be taken together since a given number of "cold" starts in the Dakar in summer is not the same as an equal number conducted in Fargo in January. The effect in either case will be modified by how much gas gets past the pistons. What we are really after is the severity and duration of the initial condensation period. All other things being equal, that will give you how much condensate will be produced and I would suggest that more than anything else determines when the oil should be dumped.

Diagnosing Problems From Tyre Wear

Firstly, let me state my views on rotating your tyres. This is the practice of swapping the front and back tyres to even out the wear. I personally don't think this is a particularly clever thing to do. Think about it: the tyres begin to wear in a pattern, however good or bad, that matches their position on the car. If you now change them all around, you end up with tyres worn for the rear being placed on the front and vice versa. The upside of it, of course, (which many people will tell you) is even overall tyre wear. By this, they mean wear in the tread depth. This is a valid point, but if you can't be bothered to buy a new pair of tyres when the old pair wear too much, then you shouldn't be on the road, let alone kidding yourself that putting worn front tyres on the back and partly worn back tyres on the front will cure your problem. But that's only my point of view.
Your tyre wear pattern can tell you a lot about any problems you might be having with the wheel/tyre/suspension geometry setup. The first two signs to look for are over- and under-inflation. These are relatively easy to spot:

Under-inflation	Correct	Over-inflation

Here's a generic fault-finding table for most types of tyre wear:

Problem	Cause
Shoulder Wear Both Shoulders wearing faster than the centre of the tread
	Under-inflation
	Repeated high-speed cornering
	Improper matching of rims and tyres
	Tyres haven't been rotated recently
Centre Wear The centre of the tread is wearing faster than the shoulders
	Over-inflation
	Improper matching of rims and tyres
	Tyres haven't been rotated recently
One-sided wear One side of the tyre wearing unusually fast
	Improper wheel alignment (especially camber)
	Tyres haven't been rotated recently
Spot wear A part (or a few parts) of the circumference of the tread are wearing faster than other parts.
	Faulty suspension, rotating parts or brake parts
	Dynamic imbalance of tyre/rim assembly
	Excessive runout of tyre and rim assembly
	Sudden braking and rapid starting
	Under inflation
Diagonal wear A part (or a few parts) of the tread are wearing diagonally faster than other parts.
	Faulty suspension, rotating parts or brake parts
	Improper wheel alignment
	Dynamic imbalance of tyre/rim assembly
	Tyres haven't been rotated recently
	Under inflation
Feather-edged wear The blocks or ribs of the tread are wearing in a feather-edge pattern
	Improper wheel alignment (faulty toe-in)
	Bent axle beam

What Do You Know About Suspension?

What does it do?

Apart from your car's tyres and seats, the suspension is the prime mechanism that separates your bum (arse for the American) from the road. It also prevents your car from shaking itself to pieces. No matter how smooth you think the road is, it's a bad, bad place to propel over a ton of metal at high speed. So we rely upon suspension. People who travel on underground trains wish
In it's most basic form, suspension consists of two basic components: that those vehicles relied on suspension too, but they don't and that's why the ride is so harsh. Actually it's harsh because underground trains have no lateral suspension to speak of. So as the rails deviate side-to-side slightly, so does the entire train, and it's passengers. In a car, the rubber in your tyre helps with this little problem.

Springs

These come in three types. They are coil springs, torsion bars and leaf springs. Coil springs are what most people are familiar with, and are actually coiled torsion bars. Leaf springs are what you would find on most American cars up to about 1985 and almost all heavy duty vehicles. They look like layers of metal connected to the axle. The layers are called leaves, hence leaf-spring. The torsion bar on its own is a bizarre little contraption which gives coiled-spring-like performance based on the twisting properties of a steel bar. It's used in the suspension of VW Beetles and Karmann Ghias, air-cooled Porsches (356 and 911 until 1989 when they went to springs), and the rear suspension of Peugeot 205s amongst other cars. Instead of having a coiled spring, the axle is attached to one end of a steel shaft. The other end is slotted into a tube and held there by splines. As the suspension moves, it twists the shaft along it's length, which in turn resist. Now image that same shaft but instead of being straight, it's coiled up. As you press on the top of the coil, you're actually inducing a twisting in the shaft, all the way down the coil. I know it's hard to visualise, but believe me, that's what is happening. There's a whole section further down the page specifically on torsion bars and progressive springs.

Shock absorbers

Strangely enough, absorb shocks. Actually they dampen the vertical motion induced by driving your car along a rough surface. If your car only had springs, it would boat and wallow along the road until you got physically sick and had to get out. Or at least until it fell apart.
Shock absorbers perform two functions. Firstly, they absorb any larger-than-average bumps in the road so that the shock isn't transmitted to the car chassis. Secondly, they keep the suspension at as full a travel as possible for the given road conditions. Shock absorbers keep your wheels planted on the road. Without them, your car would be a travelling deathtrap.
You want more technical terms? Technically they are called dampers. Even more technically, they are velocity-sensitive hydraulic damping devices - in other words, the faster they move, the more resistance there is to that movement. They work in conjunction with the springs. The spring allows movement of the wheel to allow the energy in the road shock to be transformed into kinetic energy of the unsprung mass, whereupon it is dissipated by the damper. The damper does this by forcing gas or oil through a constriction valve (a small hole). Adjustable shock absorbers allow you to change the size of this constriction, and thus control the rate of damping. The smaller the constriction, the stiffer the suspension. Phew!....and you thought they just leaked oil didn't you?

Understand Anti lock Braking Systems - ABS

Stop without skidding, and maintain control of the vehicle. That's the premise of ABS. It was first introduced in the 1980's and has been undergoing constant refinement ever since. The system is typically comprised of 4 ABS rings, 4 sensors, an ABS computer and a pressure-management system in the brake line. The ABS rings are attached either to the wheels, or more often, to the brake discs.

The sensors are magnetic field sensors which are held very close to the ABS rings and can detect the slight change in magnetic field as the teeth on the ring pass them. The pulsing field tells the ABS computer that the wheels are spinning, and how fast they're spinning.

When you brake, the wheel rotation starts to slow down. The ABS computer "listens" to the input from the sensors and can detect if one wheel is slowing down much quicker than the others - the precursor to the wheel locking up. This all happens in milliseconds, by the way. When the computer detects this condition, the pressure regulator interrupts the pressure in the brake lines by momentarily reducing the pressure so that the brakes give the wheels a chance to keep spinning rather than locking up. The computer then instructs the regulator to re-apply full pressure and again measures the wheel rotation. This on/off/measure cycle happens around 15 to 30 times a second. If the ABS kicks in, you'll feel it through the brake pedal as a vibration because the pulsing in the brake circuit affects all the components.

All You Need To Know About HID Lighting!

HID Technology:

XENON HID lamps do not have a filament. Instead the light is created by an electrical discharge between two electrodes in an air tight tiny quartz capsule filled with xenon gas, mercury and metal halide salts. This improves durability as road vibrations can cause damage to coil lighting technologies. These light sources also produce a blue-white light that is safer because it is closer to natural daylight. The color temperature is approximately 4200 K compared to 3200 K for halogen. The increased light output from a 35 watt XENON HID lamp is approximately 80% more light then a 55 watt halogen bulb. The XENON HID system will also draw less power from your vehicles electrical system.

Temperature:

Color Temperature is a measurement in Degrees Kelvin that indicates the hue of a specific type of light source. Many people believe the misconception that color temperature is a rating of the brightness of the bulb or HID kit. This belief is completely false. The reality of the matter is that the higher the color temperature, the less useable light output you will obtain. A perfect example would be a black light. This light has a color temperature of approx 12,000k and has almost no useable light or lumens output. Higher K kits such as 7000k, 7500k, etc. have been manufactured for individuals that are more concerned about the actual color output of their lights as opposed to the actual useable light output they produce.

Hurricane Air Filter

H U R R I C A N E A I R F I L T E R : I n t r o d u c t i o n

The air intake system of any combustion engine is very critical. A well designed air intake system will give the best performance in low, mid and high-end torque.

The air intake system usually incorporate a simple filter element for prevention of foreign objects. This simple filter is usually made of paper or fibre which is low cost and needs to be replaced periodically. This simple filter although gives good filtration, but it also restrict air from entering into
the engine.

After market drop in panel air filters are introduce to give better air flow. This usually come in the form of cotton(sandwhiched by wire gauze), sponge, or high quality fibre. Most of these filters need oil to trap particles. The disadvantages are:

• Needs dedicated cleaning solution and oiling
• Not easy to maintain
• Fine oil droplets with dust contaminate mass air
flow sensor

H U R R I C A N E A I R F I L T E R : W h y H u r r i c a n e ?

Hurricane believes in quality and performance. Hurricane Air Filter Element uses Japan's highest rust proof Stainless Steel for our filter element.

The uniform microscopic holes on Hurricane wire mesh ensures very consistent filtration and airflow. Thus allowing engines to breathe better as compared to the inconsistency airflow of cotton/foam filter.

With a simple Hurricane panel filter, you can expect a decent horse power gain from mid to high RPM. Acceleration is smoother and faster. The feeling is like changing to an open pod air filter.

Hurricane filter will still deliver its promised filtration without compromise under extreme temperature. The filter element is strong and will not be easily shifted even under
extreme pressure.

Unlike oil-based filters, Hurricane filter causes lesser contamination to the MAF Sensor due to the absence of oil. (Note: Oil + Dust = Sticky Dirt)

Hurricane filter frames are made from specially treated rubber instead of injection molding, thus ensuring a stronger structure and longer lifespan.

FUEL SAVER
With a noticeable increase in torque and power due to an easier breathing engine, one may gain extra mileage of up to 10% just by changing to Hurricane Stainless Steel Air Filter with the same driving style

SIMPLEST IN MAINTENANCE
Hurricane Filters are the easiest to maintain. Just use water and light soap. Blow dry and its ready to use ! Cleaning is recommended during every oil change of 5,000km
or 10,000km.

Benefits
More Power, Smoother Acceleration	Increase in Power due to higher air flow. Significant Mid to high end torque gain
Prolong lifespan of MAF sensor	No more contamination of MAF sensor
Easiest to Maintain	No Oiling needed, Wash and blow dry.
Longer lasting, more durable than other leading brands	Element made from Stainless Steel, frame made from high quality treated rubber. Will not melt or warp melt under extreme heat.
Fully LTA Compliant	Fitting Hurricane air filter will not affect the structural integrity of the vehicle.

Battery Life Span

Battery Life Span

Batteries have an average life span of between 18 and 24 months.

The car battery can last a considerable period in a normal-functioning car that is driven every day because the alternator keeps the battery at full charge. However, if the battery is left for days or weeks in a semi-discharged condition, crystals formed will cause adverse chemical reactions within the battery. This will in turn damage the battery cells, and the battery would no longer be able to hold a full charge.

The lifespan of a battery is however not totally dependent on the amount of work it has done. Since the battery is a chemical device, its capacity will decrease as the battery grows older and loses some of the active material from its plates. Therefore, the common belief of economizing on the use of electrical equipment, such as headlights and the radio, to extend the life of a battery is incorrect.

Normally a battery "ages" as the active positive plate material flakes off due to the normal expansion and contraction that occurs during the discharge and charge cycles. This causes a loss of plate capacity and a brown sediment called sludge or "mud," that builds up in the bottom of the case and can shorten the lifespan of the cell plates. Deep discharges, heat, vibration, fast charging, and overcharging all accelerate the "aging" process. The major cause of premature car battery failure is loss of water caused from high heat under the hood, or overcharging.

Battery Failure

The signs of impending battery failure include:

• Sluggish cranking of engine
• Weak horn
• Instrument panel lights and headlights that brighten very noticeably as the engine is revved

If you come across any of the above symptoms, call the AA Roadside Assistance at 6748 9911 for an appointment to check your car's battery condition.

Common mistakes

Avoid these common mistakes often made by car owners:

• Many people have the misconception that they do not have to check on their car batteries because they possess maintenance-free car batteries. However, a large number of batteries still provide an indicator for car owners to inspect and add water to the battery cells when necessary.
• Never run the engine with your battery disconnected.
• If you should ever need to change the battery on your own, always remember to take out the negative (-ve) end first, followed by the positive (+ve) end when removing the car battery. The sequence for connecting it back is the reverse, i.e. positive end first followed by the negative end. You should also check with your car agent whether the battery change will affect the car's computer memory system.

Basic maintenance checks to get the most out of your car battery:

• Keep the battery casing clean by using hot, soapy water and dry the casing well. The battery terminals should also be cleaned at every car service. Apply petroleum jelly or terminal protector to keep corrosion on the terminals to minimum.
• Check the electrolyte level every two weeks, filling with distilled water just above the plates or between the maximum and minimum markings indicated in the battery casing.
• Keep cigarettes and other naked lights well away when checking the battery.
• Secure the battery so that vibration would not cause any damage to the plates. The connections on the battery terminals should be inspected regularly.
• Ensure that the charge rate is correct at every car service, as either overcharging or undercharging will reduce battery life.
• Ensure that the car's electrical appliances (e.g. headlights, aircon, car stereo) are switched off before you start your car, to prevent a current surge that could cause the battery plates to buckle and thereby shortening the battery's life.
• AA provides quality batteries that come with an extended 12 to 18-month warranty period against manufacturing defects. As a value added service, a reminder will be sent to all members to alert them nearing the end of the warranty period. Battery delivery service is also available 24/7.
  

GPS - Room Mirror Monitor

Have you ever experienced any of following situations:

- Unable to locate the place you are going to

- Rushing in time and do not know or cannot decide how to reach your designation on time.

- Lose your orientation in new place.

Our high-tech but user friendly in-car GPS navigation has the solution for your problem to finding designations and ensure you a safe and pleasant driving in Singapore as well as entire peninsula Malaysia.

Enjoy surfing our website and give us an opportunity to share our value added information with you.