Lancer Evolution Car Craze By Sean Toh

AEM Receives U.S. Patent For Its V2 Air Induction Systems!

2006-03-05T00:07:00.000+08:00

Hawthorne, CA, November 29th, 2005—AEM is proud to announce that the United States Patent Office has issued a patent for the company’s V2 Air Induction Systems! Patents are issued for innovative, unique concepts for which no prior art of a design or innovation exists.

AEM’s V2 Air Induction Systems received US Patent number 6,959,679. The dual chamber design of this system creates multiple frequency sound waves, delivering a primary sound wave that coincides with valve events at low- and mid-RPM, and a secondary sound wave that coincides with valve events at higher RPM as the primary sound wave falls out of sync. This means that AEM’s V2 intake systems are able to create more torque and horsepower across the entire RPM range over single chamber intake systems alone, and are the only intake systems that will outperform AEM’s legendary Cold Air systems.

All AEM V2 Induction systems are made from lightweight aircraft aluminum with high-strength TIG-welded brackets and fittings, include a DRYFLOW performance air filter that filters at 99.4% efficiency and never requires filter oil, and come with complete hardware and comprehensive instructions. All AEM V2 Induction systems are C.A.R.B.-exempt (50-State Legal).

AEM performance products are Engineered to Outperform. The company manufactures street and race performance products that are unmatched in performance, quality and value. AEM headquarters is located in Hawthorne, CA.

Toyo Proxes RA1 Usage Guide

2006-03-02T18:51:00.000+08:00

Here are a few basic pointers to using the Toyo RA1 DOT Race Tire:

The RA1 comes molded at 8/32 of rubber, which is quite a bit of rubber for a race tire. There are two reasons for shaving. The first reason is make the tread blocks shorter. This keeps the tread from rolling over during cornering and building up too much heat. (Which can lead to chunking) This can contribute to making the car feel unstable and loose. The second reason to shave is to make the tire faster sooner. By cutting the tread down it makes the tire more responsive immediately and strangely enough also helps the tire last longer. How much to cut depends on which type of driving you intend to do.

The common shave for a full race set-up is at least 4/32. For Track day events we recommend at least 6/32 shave. If you plan on using them for everyday summer driving, then leave them full skid. It is important to leave the tires with as much tread as possible for street driving in case of rain. (FYI: Full tread RA1's are used as rain tires in competition.)

The Toyo RA1 unlike most compound tires doesn't require the tire to be heat cycled. You can mount them up and just run on them. . One characteristic of the RA1 is that unless you shave them to very shallow depths, the tires do take time to run in. Meaning that that if buy a set at full skid, they will not be as fast as they will be when they wear down to 4/32 and etc.

The RA1 remains consistent during the life span of the tire and in most cases becomes even faster as they wear. One more thing, the RA1 wears like no other tire on the market. Compared to other compound tires, the RA1 should give you a minimum of 2-3 times the wear compared to other compound tires and even UHP Street tires.

Tire pressures should be started at about 32psi cold. You shouldn't see more than a 5-7 psi gain during a run. You should end up in the high 30's to low 40's. If you take tire temps, the normal operating range of the RA1 is 160-220 degrees. These numbers are arrived at with a properly set-up car in mind. Outside temperatures may make it difficult to hit these numbers, but in general these are temps you should be seeing if you have a properly set-up car.

One mistake people make is thinking that if they just mount up a set of new race rubber they will be faster. This may be true in some case and in others they may seem to make no difference. The reason for this is all race tires need to have camber adjustments made to get the optimum level of grip they can provide. Without this adjustment the tires though stickier, may not work at their best.

If you have camber plates you will be able to get the most from the RA1 and any other compound tire. To get the tire to work to its maximum, you need to dial in at least 2 deg of negative camber in the front. If you have camber plates then dial in more, say upwards of 3 deg negative. (Toyo recommends between E to E deg) This is required to get the car to handle. All the other temps and pressures gains depend upon getting this setting correct. If you see wild pressure gains or temps it is probably due to a bad set-up. The tire only reflects the set-up used on the car and the driving style used by the driver. 99% of the time it is not the tires fault, but they get 99% of the blame for an ill handling or over aggressive driver.

You can adjust most cars in stock form to get more negative camber, but it is limited. The drawback to doing this on a street car is you will wear the tires out very fast. To get the most life out of the Toyo RA1 you need to take care of them. First thing is if you notice one of the shoulders is wearing more quickly than the other, you need take it and have it flipped on the wheel. When it gets about half worn that is time to flip. This will greatly increase the life of the tire and even out the wear. (FYI: RA1's are only directional when used as rain tires. Once shaved, or worn down, you can run them in any direction you choose.)

Next, when driving with these tires in competition, try not to overheat them in the initial run. If you feel the tires are getting a little greasy, take a trip down the pit lane, this will allow the tires to cool just enough to continue on. One note on driving, the RA1 is not as prone to flat spotting under heavy braking as other race tires; additionally it is a very forgiving tire, allowing the driver a chance to save the car if he loses control, unlike most compound tires.

When storing the tires for the winter or off-season follow these simple steps. Try to keep them stored in a temperature above freezing, ideally indoors with low humidity. Take the RA1's off and put them in plastic bags for storage. Keep them dry and out of the sun and heat. Race tires are very sensitive to extreme weather, be it hot or cold.

If you follow these simple guidelines you should get the performance advantages of having an R compound tire on your car. As with most guidelines, not all things work for all driving styles and conditions. These suggestions come from our over 20 years of race tire sales and support. When making adjustments based on these suggestions, please make them in small increments. I.E. don't go from 32 psi to 40psi. No more than 2 psi increments. Same for camber adjustments. Good luck.

Car Decals for Mitsubishi Evolution

2006-03-02T01:20:00.000+08:00

Decals EMore and more Evo's started showing up at the autocrosses and I wanted the car to stand out from the crowd. Plus I wanted to draw attention to my sponsor EExtreme Performance. I also learned after my first National event that each car has to run several series sponsor decals at each event. I didn't want to have to keep applying and removing them at each event so I decided to incorporate them into the scheme of the car. I always liked the look of the Alfa Romeo 155 touring cars, another red 4 door, so I copied their scheme - red car, white logo, black wheels and rocker panels, etc. GraphTech in San Bruno did a great job making and installing all the graphics.

Joe250's Lancer Evolution

2006-02-27T17:23:00.000+08:00

The Extreme Performance Evo 8 started out as a weekend toy.I bought the car to drive on the back roads and do the occasional autocross.That changed once I competed in the car the first time.Just two weeks after I bought it, I took it to a local autocross and I realized the Evo was just made to autocross. I had so much fun racing over the next few weekends I decided to compete seriously for the 2004 season.

I ran into an old friend and fellow autocrosser, Navid Kahangi. He wanted to co-drive the Evo and his shop in San Jose, Extreme Performance, would handle all the setup and mods to the car.Navid drove his own M3 race car to an overall win at the 12 Hours of Thunderhill race the other year, so he knows setup and how to drive.

We are running the car in the SCCA Solo2 autocross series. The class is Street Prepared, which allows for some of the common mods enthusiasts make to their street cars Exhaust, suspension, wheels, etc.

Check out his Mitsuishi Evolution car!!!

Carbon Fiber License Plate Frame: Mitsubishi Evolution 2003-Up

2006-02-24T21:37:00.000+08:00

Add a touch of carbon fiber flair with Carbign Craft’s Dry Carbon Rear License Plate Frames. The “2k” Carbon Fiber weave brings an exotic European racing look while impressing the drivers behind your car. Each Carbign Craft License Plate Frame is designed for perfect fitment and utilizes fade resistant epoxy coating to reduce the effects of UV light.

DC Sports Introduces Evo VIII Turbo Manifold!

2006-02-22T18:36:00.000+08:00

June 3rd, 2004, Hawthorne, CA—DC Sports proudly announces the release of its Turbo Manifold for the 2003-05 Mitsubishi Evo VIII (part number MTM6007B)!

DC Sports Turbo Manifolds are dyno tested for all out performance for racing applications only. Extensive research and development goes into each component to ensure the best performance for your vehicle. DC Sports Turbo Manifolds and Competition Pipes are precision bent on our CNC mandrel benders using data acquired from our non-contact digitizing scanner. Our flanges are CNC machined, we machine-grind the flange- mating surface to ensure a leak-free seal and use a robotic welder to attach the flange to the header pipes. Our state-of-the-art manufacturing process ensures superior quality and a perfect fit with every header system we make.

DC Sports Turbo manifolds are available in 100% T-304-stainless steel only, and are for use on Off-Road vehicles only.

Turbo Manifold and Competition Pipe Key Features:

Tuned for all-out performance for Racing applications only
Eliminates catalytic converter(s) (Up and Down Pipes)
NOT C.A.R.B. exempt
CAD-rendered design eases installation
100% T-304 Stainless steel construction
CNC mandrel bends with robotically-welded fittings deliver perfect fit
Includes comprehensive instructions and all necessary hardware
Turbo manifolds are competition pipes are NOT C.A.R.B. exempt

DC Sports performance products are Engineered to Outperform. The company manufactures street and race performance products that are unmatched in performance, quality and value. DC Sports is an AEM performance brand and is headquartered in Hawthorne, CA.

Tint Your Lancer Evolution

2006-02-20T20:56:00.000+08:00

As one of the leading solar control films today, COOL N LiTE™ shields you from the sun with classic shades that prolong the life of your car's interior. With the film’s super heat reduction properties, it minimizes the working load of your air-conditioner, thus extending the life of your car's air-conditioning and optimizing your automobile's driving performance.

The sun’s heat and damaging ultraviolet are the main causes of passenger discomfort and premature aging of your car’s interior. By rejecting up to 63 percent of the sun’s total solar energy and blocking almost 100 percent of damaging and harmful ultraviolet, COOL N LiTE™ window films function just like a sunscreen—shielding you and your car from the sun’s damaging effects.

Before

After

Illumi Engine Starter Switch

2006-02-18T07:52:00.000+08:00

Change your starter switch to a push button type like those used in racecars.

Illumination	Lamp emits highly luminous LED.
Switch	Just open a φ22mm hole for easy installation.
Easy-to-Install	Easy-to-install harness for turbo timers complete with couplers connected (possible to wire directly)
Can be used	Possible to use together with remote control starter and / or turbo timer.
·High-capacity 30A relay for starter.

ILLUMI STARTER
ISK-L (Blue Illumination)
ISK-R (Red Illumination)

Pivot Sound - Improve The Quality Of Your Car's Audio Sound

2006-02-16T22:17:00.000+08:00

Car audio sound quality is easily influenced by changes in voltage and the electrical discharge speed of the battery cannot keep up with the flashing speed of flux in music signals. With this in mind, Raizin Sound has been designed specifically to improve the quality of your car's audio sound by increasing the electrical discharge response speed to the match the audio condenser circuitry, offering a stable supply of voltage, and further by reducing noise.

·Our voltage stabilizer, having been designed for car audio, not only greatly cuts noise, but the stabilized voltage supply to each unit brings you higher quality audio sound.

·Brings you vivid trebles and mediants, as well as, more resonant bass sounds.

·Outstanding results for both standard audio and full component audio.

Specifications
·For use with DC12V.
·Condenser Capacity=20,000μF
·Voltage Resistance=40V
·Protection Circuit=15A×2fuze
·Case Heat Resistance=140°C
·Waterproof＝Silicone Waterproofing Seal

Brings Out 100% of Your Ignition Coil's Performance

2006-02-15T20:05:00.000+08:00

Until now, due to various types of load resistance and interference at the contact terminals, fuses, contact points and cords in the electric circuitry on the way to the ignition coil, major loss occurred and optimum combustion did not take place. To help solve this the Raizin Spark utilizes a new approach in voltage stabilizer devices for ignition coils that brings out 100% of your ignition's performance by providing point blank power to the ignition coil via connection to our specially designed circuitry. This in turn gives you dramatic improvement in engine performance from optimum ignition to ideal combustion.

Type S Red Raizin

Easy-installation to connect the interior fuse box.

Type S can be easily wired by a one-touch connection to the interior fuse box (ignition). It is also possible to switch the power between +B (normal power) and IG+ to match your car model setup. Moreover, peace of mind comes in knowing that the unit is equipped with a delay circuit to avoid trouble caused by power bursts during battery recharging when using IG+ ON.

Newly Designed Honeycomb Condenser.

Our exclusive newly designed condenser, which includes honeycomb shapes in various places, has superior frequency response characteristics that help to bring about incredible noise reduction and results in more stabilized voltage, as well as, achieves both optimum high frequency wave responsivity and improvement in electrical capacitance.

Interior Installation.

NOTE
1.There are some model cars for which this product cannot be connected, has not been checked for wiring compatibility or for which due to the carÕs wiring there was a lack of results.
2.Please do not attempt to connect a similar product in the same way as our product, or install this product to a car for which the product is not compatible. Doing so may cause damage to your carÕs parts.

Type V Yellow Raizin

Easy-installation with couplers connected.

The installation is easy and does not allow for wiring mistakes. Simply connect by inserting the supplied coupler to the standard coupler and then connect to the battery.

Model Specificity ensures Proven Perfect Ignition Tuning.

Type V has been designed to allow for an even closer connection to the ignition coil than Type S, so that even a higher level of performance and flawless ignition coil voltage stabilization could be achieved. And because power and earth are handled from the battery there is no wiring loss that results in flawless ignition firing every time.

Nothing more can be done in the Name of High Performance.

To bring about the best results in voltage stabilization, we added stabilizing circuitry and dual relays and thick cables to connect the ignition coil to the battery at the shortest distance. This combined with the taking of earth directly from the battery has resulted clear improvements in performance, including almost no loss of voltage, a reduction in pulse noise, and a rise in voltage. Moreover, the waterproof coating and the internal fuse give you the safety and stability you need.

Engine room Installation.

Currently, the only model of car that is supported is SUBARU (some of IMPREZA and LEGACY and FORESTER), but additions are planned to made as required.

Mineral or Synthetic Engine Oil?

2006-02-09T23:22:00.000+08:00

Mineral or Synthetic

Mineral oils are based on oil that comes from dear old Mother Earth which has been refined. Synthetic oils are entirely concocted by chemists wearing white lab coats in oil company laboratories. For more info, see the section on synthetics further down the page. The only other type is semi-synthetic, sometimes called premium, which is a blend of the two. It is safe to mix the different types, but it's wiser to switch completely to a new type rather than mixing.
A couple of words of warning:

* If you've been driving around with mineral oil in your engine for years, don't switch to synthetic oil without preparation. Synthetic oils have been known to dislodge the baked-on deposits from mineral oils and leave them floating around your engine - not good. I learned this lesson the hard way! It's wise to use a flushing oil first.
* If you do decide to change, only go up the scale. If you've been running around on synthetic, don't change down to a mineral-based oil - your engine might not be able to cope with the degradation in lubrication. Consequently, if you've been using mineral oil, try a semi or a full synthetic oil. By degradation, I'm speaking of the wear tolerances that an engine develops based on the oil that it's using. Thicker mineral oils mean thicker layers of oil coating the moving parts (by microns though). Switching to a thinner synthetic oil can cause piston rings to leak and in some very rare cases, piston slap or crank vibration.
* Gaskets and seals! With the makeup of synthetic oils being different from mineral oils, mineral-oil-soaked gaskets and seals have been known to leak when exposed to synthetic oils. Perhaps not that common an occurrence, but worth bearing in mind nevertheless.
Synthetics

Despite their name, most synthetic derived motor oils (ie Mobil 1, Castrol Formula RS etc ) are actually derived from mineral oils - they are mostly Polyalphaolifins and these come from the purest part of the mineral oil refraction process, the gas. PAO oils will mix with normal mineral oils which means Joe public can add synthetic to his mineral, or mineral to his synthetic without his car engine seizing up. The most stable bases are polyol-ester (not polyester, you fool). When I say 'stable' I mean 'less likely to react adversely with other compounds.' Synthetic oil bases tend not to contain reactive carbon atoms for this reason. Reactive carbon has a tendency to combine with oxygen creating an acid. As you can imagine, in an oil, this would be A Bad Thing. So think of synthetic oils as custom-built oils. They're designed to do the job efficiently but without any of the excess baggage that can accompany mineral based oils.

Pure synthetics

Pure synthetic oils (polyalkyleneglycol) are the types used almost exclusively within the industrial sector in polyglycol gearbox oils for heavily loaded gearboxes. These are typically concocted by intelligent blokes in white lab coats. These chaps break apart the molecules that make up a variety of substances, like vegetable and animal oils, and then recombine the individual atoms that make up those molecules to build new, synthetic molecules. This process allows the chemists to actually "fine tune" the molecules as they build them. Clever stuff. But Polyglycols don't mix with normal mineral oils.

A Subset Of Tyre Construction : Tyre tread

2006-02-08T22:07:00.000+08:00

You thought tread was the shape of the rubber blocks around the outside of your tyre didn't you? Well it is, but it's also so much more. The proper choice of tread design for a specific application can mean the difference between a comfortable, quiet ride, and a piss poor excuse for a tyre that leaves you feeling exhausted whenever you get out of your car.
A proper tread design improves traction, improves handling and increases Durability. It also has a direct effect on ride comfort, noise level and fuel efficiency. Believe it or not, each part of the tread of your tyre has a different name, and a different function and effect on the overall tyre. Your tyres might not have all these features, but here's a rundown of what they look like, what they're called and why the tyre manufacturers spend millions each year fiddling with all this stuff.

Sipes are the small, slit-like grooves in the tread blocks that allow the blocks to flex. This added flexibility increases traction by creating an additional biting edge. Sipes are especially helpful on ice, light snow and loose dirt.

Grooves create voids for better water channeling on wet road surfaces (like the Aquachannel tyres below). Grooves are the most efficient way of channeling water from in front of the tyres to behind it. By designing grooves circumferentially, water has less distance to be channeled.

Blocks are the segments that make up the majority of a tyre's tread. Their primary function is to provide traction.

Ribs are the straight-lined row of blocks that create a circumferential contact "band."

Dimples are the indentations in the tread, normally towards the outer edge of the tyre. They improve cooling.

Shoulders provide continuous contact with the road while maneuvering. The shoulders wrap slightly over the inner and outer sidewall of a tyre.

The Void Ratio is the amount of open space in the tread. A low void ratio means a tyre has more rubber is in contact with the road. A high void ratio increases the ability to drain water. Sports, dry-weather and high performance tyres have a low void ratio for grip and traction. Wet-weather and snow tyres have high void ratios.

So How Often Should I Change My Oil?

2006-02-07T20:22:00.000+08:00

You can never change your engine oil too frequently. The more you do it, the longer the engine will last. The whole debate about exactly when you change your oil is somewhat of a grey area. Manufacturers tell you every 10,000 miles or so. Your mate with a classic car tells you every 3,000 miles. Ole' Bob with the bad breath who drives a truck tells you he's never once changed the oil in his car. Fact is, large quantities of water are produced by the normal combustion process and, depending on engine wear, some of it gets into the crank case. If you have a good crank case breathing system it gets removed from there PDQ, but even so, in cold weather a lot of condensation will take place. This is bad enough in itself, since water is not noted for its lubrication qualities in an engine, but even worse, that water dissolves any nitrates formed during the combustion process. If my memory of chemistry serves me right, that leaves you with a mixture of Nitric (HNO3) and Nitrous (HNO2) acid circulating round your engine! So not only do you suffer a high rate of wear at start-up and when the engine is cold, you suffer a high rate of subsequent corrosion during normal running or even when stationary.

The point I'm trying to make is that the optimum time for changing oil ought to be related to a number of factors, of which distance travelled is probably one of the least important in most cases. Here is my selection in rough order of importance:

Number of cold starts (more condensation in a cold engine)
Ambient temperature (how long before warm enough to stop serious condensation)
Effectiveness of crank case scavenging (more of that anon)
State of wear of the engine (piston blow-by multiplies the problem)
Accuracy of carburation during warm-up period (extra gook produced)
Distance travelled (well, lets get that one out of the way)

If you were clever (or anal) enough, you could probably come up with a really clever formula incorporating all those factors. However, I would give 1, 2, and 3 equal top weighting. Items 1 to 3 have to be taken together since a given number of "cold" starts in the Dakar in summer is not the same as an equal number conducted in Fargo in January. The effect in either case will be modified by how much gas gets past the pistons. What we are really after is the severity and duration of the initial condensation period. All other things being equal, that will give you how much condensate will be produced and I would suggest that more than anything else determines when the oil should be dumped.

Diagnosing Problems From Tyre Wear

2006-02-06T12:33:00.000+08:00

Firstly, let me state my views on rotating your tyres. This is the practice of swapping the front and back tyres to even out the wear. I personally don't think this is a particularly clever thing to do. Think about it: the tyres begin to wear in a pattern, however good or bad, that matches their position on the car. If you now change them all around, you end up with tyres worn for the rear being placed on the front and vice versa. The upside of it, of course, (which many people will tell you) is even overall tyre wear. By this, they mean wear in the tread depth. This is a valid point, but if you can't be bothered to buy a new pair of tyres when the old pair wear too much, then you shouldn't be on the road, let alone kidding yourself that putting worn front tyres on the back and partly worn back tyres on the front will cure your problem. But that's only my point of view.
Your tyre wear pattern can tell you a lot about any problems you might be having with the wheel/tyre/suspension geometry setup. The first two signs to look for are over- and under-inflation. These are relatively easy to spot:

Under-inflation	Correct	Over-inflation

Here's a generic fault-finding table for most types of tyre wear:

Problem	Cause
Shoulder Wear Both Shoulders wearing faster than the centre of the tread
	Under-inflation
	Repeated high-speed cornering
	Improper matching of rims and tyres
	Tyres haven't been rotated recently
Centre Wear The centre of the tread is wearing faster than the shoulders
	Over-inflation
	Improper matching of rims and tyres
	Tyres haven't been rotated recently
One-sided wear One side of the tyre wearing unusually fast
	Improper wheel alignment (especially camber)
	Tyres haven't been rotated recently
Spot wear A part (or a few parts) of the circumference of the tread are wearing faster than other parts.
	Faulty suspension, rotating parts or brake parts
	Dynamic imbalance of tyre/rim assembly
	Excessive runout of tyre and rim assembly
	Sudden braking and rapid starting
	Under inflation
Diagonal wear A part (or a few parts) of the tread are wearing diagonally faster than other parts.
	Faulty suspension, rotating parts or brake parts
	Improper wheel alignment
	Dynamic imbalance of tyre/rim assembly
	Tyres haven't been rotated recently
	Under inflation
Feather-edged wear The blocks or ribs of the tread are wearing in a feather-edge pattern
	Improper wheel alignment (faulty toe-in)
	Bent axle beam

What Do You Know About Suspension?

2006-02-05T11:20:00.000+08:00

What does it do?

Apart from your car's tyres and seats, the suspension is the prime mechanism that separates your bum (arse for the American) from the road. It also prevents your car from shaking itself to pieces. No matter how smooth you think the road is, it's a bad, bad place to propel over a ton of metal at high speed. So we rely upon suspension. People who travel on underground trains wish
In it's most basic form, suspension consists of two basic components: that those vehicles relied on suspension too, but they don't and that's why the ride is so harsh. Actually it's harsh because underground trains have no lateral suspension to speak of. So as the rails deviate side-to-side slightly, so does the entire train, and it's passengers. In a car, the rubber in your tyre helps with this little problem.

Springs

These come in three types. They are coil springs, torsion bars and leaf springs. Coil springs are what most people are familiar with, and are actually coiled torsion bars. Leaf springs are what you would find on most American cars up to about 1985 and almost all heavy duty vehicles. They look like layers of metal connected to the axle. The layers are called leaves, hence leaf-spring. The torsion bar on its own is a bizarre little contraption which gives coiled-spring-like performance based on the twisting properties of a steel bar. It's used in the suspension of VW Beetles and Karmann Ghias, air-cooled Porsches (356 and 911 until 1989 when they went to springs), and the rear suspension of Peugeot 205s amongst other cars. Instead of having a coiled spring, the axle is attached to one end of a steel shaft. The other end is slotted into a tube and held there by splines. As the suspension moves, it twists the shaft along it's length, which in turn resist. Now image that same shaft but instead of being straight, it's coiled up. As you press on the top of the coil, you're actually inducing a twisting in the shaft, all the way down the coil. I know it's hard to visualise, but believe me, that's what is happening. There's a whole section further down the page specifically on torsion bars and progressive springs.

Shock absorbers

Strangely enough, absorb shocks. Actually they dampen the vertical motion induced by driving your car along a rough surface. If your car only had springs, it would boat and wallow along the road until you got physically sick and had to get out. Or at least until it fell apart.
Shock absorbers perform two functions. Firstly, they absorb any larger-than-average bumps in the road so that the shock isn't transmitted to the car chassis. Secondly, they keep the suspension at as full a travel as possible for the given road conditions. Shock absorbers keep your wheels planted on the road. Without them, your car would be a travelling deathtrap.
You want more technical terms? Technically they are called dampers. Even more technically, they are velocity-sensitive hydraulic damping devices - in other words, the faster they move, the more resistance there is to that movement. They work in conjunction with the springs. The spring allows movement of the wheel to allow the energy in the road shock to be transformed into kinetic energy of the unsprung mass, whereupon it is dissipated by the damper. The damper does this by forcing gas or oil through a constriction valve (a small hole). Adjustable shock absorbers allow you to change the size of this constriction, and thus control the rate of damping. The smaller the constriction, the stiffer the suspension. Phew!....and you thought they just leaked oil didn't you?

Understand Anti lock Braking Systems - ABS

2006-02-03T21:07:00.000+08:00

Stop without skidding, and maintain control of the vehicle. That's the premise of ABS. It was first introduced in the 1980's and has been undergoing constant refinement ever since. The system is typically comprised of 4 ABS rings, 4 sensors, an ABS computer and a pressure-management system in the brake line. The ABS rings are attached either to the wheels, or more often, to the brake discs.

The sensors are magnetic field sensors which are held very close to the ABS rings and can detect the slight change in magnetic field as the teeth on the ring pass them. The pulsing field tells the ABS computer that the wheels are spinning, and how fast they're spinning.

When you brake, the wheel rotation starts to slow down. The ABS computer "listens" to the input from the sensors and can detect if one wheel is slowing down much quicker than the others - the precursor to the wheel locking up. This all happens in milliseconds, by the way. When the computer detects this condition, the pressure regulator interrupts the pressure in the brake lines by momentarily reducing the pressure so that the brakes give the wheels a chance to keep spinning rather than locking up. The computer then instructs the regulator to re-apply full pressure and again measures the wheel rotation. This on/off/measure cycle happens around 15 to 30 times a second. If the ABS kicks in, you'll feel it through the brake pedal as a vibration because the pulsing in the brake circuit affects all the components.

All You Need To Know About HID Lighting!

2006-02-02T18:49:00.000+08:00

HID Technology:

XENON HID lamps do not have a filament. Instead the light is created by an electrical discharge between two electrodes in an air tight tiny quartz capsule filled with xenon gas, mercury and metal halide salts. This improves durability as road vibrations can cause damage to coil lighting technologies. These light sources also produce a blue-white light that is safer because it is closer to natural daylight. The color temperature is approximately 4200 K compared to 3200 K for halogen. The increased light output from a 35 watt XENON HID lamp is approximately 80% more light then a 55 watt halogen bulb. The XENON HID system will also draw less power from your vehicles electrical system.

Temperature:

Color Temperature is a measurement in Degrees Kelvin that indicates the hue of a specific type of light source. Many people believe the misconception that color temperature is a rating of the brightness of the bulb or HID kit. This belief is completely false. The reality of the matter is that the higher the color temperature, the less useable light output you will obtain. A perfect example would be a black light. This light has a color temperature of approx 12,000k and has almost no useable light or lumens output. Higher K kits such as 7000k, 7500k, etc. have been manufactured for individuals that are more concerned about the actual color output of their lights as opposed to the actual useable light output they produce.

Hurricane Air Filter

2006-02-01T15:32:00.000+08:00

H U R R I C A N E A I R F I L T E R : I n t r o d u c t i o n

The air intake system of any combustion engine is very critical. A well designed air intake system will give the best performance in low, mid and high-end torque.

The air intake system usually incorporate a simple filter element for prevention of foreign objects. This simple filter is usually made of paper or fibre which is low cost and needs to be replaced periodically. This simple filter although gives good filtration, but it also restrict air from entering into
the engine.

After market drop in panel air filters are introduce to give better air flow. This usually come in the form of cotton(sandwhiched by wire gauze), sponge, or high quality fibre. Most of these filters need oil to trap particles. The disadvantages are:

• Needs dedicated cleaning solution and oiling
• Not easy to maintain
• Fine oil droplets with dust contaminate mass air
flow sensor

H U R R I C A N E A I R F I L T E R : W h y H u r r i c a n e ?

Hurricane believes in quality and performance. Hurricane Air Filter Element uses Japan's highest rust proof Stainless Steel for our filter element.

The uniform microscopic holes on Hurricane wire mesh ensures very consistent filtration and airflow. Thus allowing engines to breathe better as compared to the inconsistency airflow of cotton/foam filter.

With a simple Hurricane panel filter, you can expect a decent horse power gain from mid to high RPM. Acceleration is smoother and faster. The feeling is like changing to an open pod air filter.

Hurricane filter will still deliver its promised filtration without compromise under extreme temperature. The filter element is strong and will not be easily shifted even under
extreme pressure.

Unlike oil-based filters, Hurricane filter causes lesser contamination to the MAF Sensor due to the absence of oil. (Note: Oil + Dust = Sticky Dirt)

Hurricane filter frames are made from specially treated rubber instead of injection molding, thus ensuring a stronger structure and longer lifespan.

FUEL SAVER
With a noticeable increase in torque and power due to an easier breathing engine, one may gain extra mileage of up to 10% just by changing to Hurricane Stainless Steel Air Filter with the same driving style

SIMPLEST IN MAINTENANCE
Hurricane Filters are the easiest to maintain. Just use water and light soap. Blow dry and its ready to use ! Cleaning is recommended during every oil change of 5,000km
or 10,000km.

Benefits
More Power, Smoother Acceleration	Increase in Power due to higher air flow. Significant Mid to high end torque gain
Prolong lifespan of MAF sensor	No more contamination of MAF sensor
Easiest to Maintain	No Oiling needed, Wash and blow dry.
Longer lasting, more durable than other leading brands	Element made from Stainless Steel, frame made from high quality treated rubber. Will not melt or warp melt under extreme heat.
Fully LTA Compliant	Fitting Hurricane air filter will not affect the structural integrity of the vehicle.

Battery Life Span

2006-01-31T14:46:00.000+08:00

Battery Life Span

Batteries have an average life span of between 18 and 24 months.

The car battery can last a considerable period in a normal-functioning car that is driven every day because the alternator keeps the battery at full charge. However, if the battery is left for days or weeks in a semi-discharged condition, crystals formed will cause adverse chemical reactions within the battery. This will in turn damage the battery cells, and the battery would no longer be able to hold a full charge.

The lifespan of a battery is however not totally dependent on the amount of work it has done. Since the battery is a chemical device, its capacity will decrease as the battery grows older and loses some of the active material from its plates. Therefore, the common belief of economizing on the use of electrical equipment, such as headlights and the radio, to extend the life of a battery is incorrect.

Normally a battery "ages" as the active positive plate material flakes off due to the normal expansion and contraction that occurs during the discharge and charge cycles. This causes a loss of plate capacity and a brown sediment called sludge or "mud," that builds up in the bottom of the case and can shorten the lifespan of the cell plates. Deep discharges, heat, vibration, fast charging, and overcharging all accelerate the "aging" process. The major cause of premature car battery failure is loss of water caused from high heat under the hood, or overcharging.

Battery Failure

The signs of impending battery failure include:

Sluggish cranking of engine
Weak horn
Instrument panel lights and headlights that brighten very noticeably as the engine is revved

If you come across any of the above symptoms, call the AA Roadside Assistance at 6748 9911 for an appointment to check your car's battery condition.

Common mistakes

Avoid these common mistakes often made by car owners:

Many people have the misconception that they do not have to check on their car batteries because they possess maintenance-free car batteries. However, a large number of batteries still provide an indicator for car owners to inspect and add water to the battery cells when necessary.
Never run the engine with your battery disconnected.
If you should ever need to change the battery on your own, always remember to take out the negative (-ve) end first, followed by the positive (+ve) end when removing the car battery. The sequence for connecting it back is the reverse, i.e. positive end first followed by the negative end. You should also check with your car agent whether the battery change will affect the car's computer memory system.

Basic maintenance checks to get the most out of your car battery:

Keep the battery casing clean by using hot, soapy water and dry the casing well. The battery terminals should also be cleaned at every car service. Apply petroleum jelly or terminal protector to keep corrosion on the terminals to minimum.
Check the electrolyte level every two weeks, filling with distilled water just above the plates or between the maximum and minimum markings indicated in the battery casing.
Keep cigarettes and other naked lights well away when checking the battery.
Secure the battery so that vibration would not cause any damage to the plates. The connections on the battery terminals should be inspected regularly.
Ensure that the charge rate is correct at every car service, as either overcharging or undercharging will reduce battery life.
Ensure that the car's electrical appliances (e.g. headlights, aircon, car stereo) are switched off before you start your car, to prevent a current surge that could cause the battery plates to buckle and thereby shortening the battery's life.
AA provides quality batteries that come with an extended 12 to 18-month warranty period against manufacturing defects. As a value added service, a reminder will be sent to all members to alert them nearing the end of the warranty period. Battery delivery service is also available 24/7.

GPS - Room Mirror Monitor

2006-01-30T21:16:00.000+08:00

Have you ever experienced any of following situations:

- Unable to locate the place you are going to

- Rushing in time and do not know or cannot decide how to reach your designation on time.

- Lose your orientation in new place.

Our high-tech but user friendly in-car GPS navigation has the solution for your problem to finding designations and ensure you a safe and pleasant driving in Singapore as well as entire peninsula Malaysia.

Enjoy surfing our website and give us an opportunity to share our value added information with you.

GPS NAVIGATION SYSTEM (D-700)

2006-01-30T21:02:00.000+08:00

D-700 is stand alone touch screen GPS Navigation with 7" Digital TFT LCD Monitor.

It displays superior quality of graphic display on its built-in monitor.

It also comes with AV-In input which can be linked with DVD/Video CD player or rear view camera.

As it is stand alone, we can even share this cool garget with your friends and relatives.

The map software is stored in CF card and it is easy to update the map data and software through on-line.

SPECIFICATIONS

S/N	Description	Specification	Remarks
1	OS	Windows-CE 4.2 Core
2	CPU	Intel X-Scale PXA-255, 400 Mhz
3	Graphic	Composite, RGB Support. 800 x 480	NTSC or PAL
3	Graphic	7" TFT Digital LCD Touch Screen Panel
4	TV Encode	FS 453, NTSC/PAL	Option
5	Memory	SDRAM : 64MB. Flash 32 MB	On Board
5	Memory	CF Card, HDD (Support up to 5GB)
6	Audio	AC97 Codec, Mono & Stereo Out	Built-in Speaker
7	GPS	12CH (9600 bps), SPS	Removable
8	I/O	RS-232, AV IN, AV OUT, ANT
9	Power	DC 1.2V (10V~16V available),
9	Power	Less Than 500mA
10	Operation	Touch Screen, Remo-con (option)
11	Operation Temperature	-5 ~ +65 Degree
12	Size / Weight	206 x 123 x 34mm, 570 g

Mitsubishi Evolution - 2006 All-Star Award

2006-01-29T15:01:00.000+08:00

Automobile magazine Editor-in-Chief Jean Jennings (Right) presents the 2006 All-Star Award to (L-R) Mitsubishi Motors North America Co-President and Co-CEO Rich Gilligan; new President and CEO Hiroshi Harunari; and Exectutive Vice President of Sales and Marketing Dave Schembri on Monday, Jan. 9, 2006 at the North American International Auto Show in Detroit. The Evo is one of only six vehicles to win this prestigious award for best overall vehicle. This is the second consecutive year the Evo nameplate has achieved this honor. (Mitsubishi/Joe Wilssens)

Your Cars Electrical System

2006-01-28T21:17:00.000+08:00

When the automotive industry was in its infancy, it used electricity only to ignite the fuel inside the engine. By the late 1920's, the electric starter replaced the hand crank, electric headlights made acetylene lamps obsolete and the sound of the electric horn drowned out the toot of the hand operated air horn. Today, a car uses an extensive electrical system just to produce, store, and distribute all the electricity it requires to allow it to run smoothly and offer the driver the comfort he now expects.

The Car Battery

The first major component in the car electrical system is the battery. The battery is used to store power for starting, and for running auxiliary devices such as clocks, radios and alarms when the engine is off. Another major component is the starter motor, which is used to start the engine (obviously). The third component is a charging device powered by the engine, known as the car alternator. This devices powers the electrical system , and charges the battery, but only when the car is running. With these basic components, the car maintains its supply of electricity. The voltage regulator keeps the voltage at the correct level and the power level stabilised, and the fuse box ensures that any minor electrical faults do not develop into major problems such as damaged components, or even worse, an electrical fire.

Many different auxiliary electrical devices are used in modern cars, such as: radios, cellular phones, rear window defrosters and electric door locks, as well as a vast array of motors powering everything from the moon roof on down.

Common Car Electrical Problems:

The battery is usually the first part of the system to develop a problem. Most batteries last between 3 and 7 years depending on brand and design. Batteries can be working perfectly one minute, and dead the next. More on this later.

Blown car fuse:

If one part of the electrical system not working like the interior lights or dash lights, then the first thing to check is the fuses. Check for the fuse panel under the dash, in the glove box, or maybe even in the engine compartment in some more modern cars. Most fuse boxes will be labeled with a circuit diagram. Modern cars use a blade type fuse which is rectangular in shape and transparent. Look for the wire, which runs through the fuse, and see if it has burned through. Any discoloring of the fuse is a good indication that the fuse has blown. If you are in any doubt, replace with a new fuse and test the system which is not working.

The Cars Alternator:

Does your car start ok, but your headlights become dim when idling? It could be a bad alternator. When the alternator cannot produce enough electricity to keep the electrical systems running and the battery will have to be used to take up the slack. This will eventually wear down the battery and not allow your car to start.

Troubleshooting your Cars Electrical System:

There is no tougher a system to troubleshoot on your car than the charging/starting system. This is due to the fact that there are a large number of things that can go wrong and it's difficult to test some components without special equipment. Let's go over some possible situations and their possible causes.

Car won't start, all I hear is a click but the engine does not turn.

First check all battery cables for corrosion as this will keep power from flowing freely to the starting system. If they are dirty, clean with a wire brush and reattach. Apply a light coat of grease to the top of the terminals to prevent further corrosion.
Battery could not have enough power stored in it to spin the engine. This can be caused by a bad cell in the battery or from a bad alternator not charging the battery when the engine is running. If you can get the car to a mechanic, have him or her test the battery and charging system with a special tester. This tester places a load on the battery and can tell the condition. They can also check to see if the alternator is working to it's full potential.
Starter or solenoid could be bad. If you can not jump start the car and all of the battery cables are ok then suspect the starter.

Car won't start, I hear nothing.

Check battery cables as above.
Have the battery tested. There could be a bad cell causing a short. You can try jump-starting but often the car will not stay running.

Car won't start, all I hear is a horrible grinding noise.

Grinding noises point to the starter not properly meshing with the flywheel. This can be caused by a bad solenoid or a bad spot on the flywheel.

I have also seen starters loosen up so they no longer contact the flywheel at the proper distance. While not common, it is something to keep in mind.

Car starts but my headlights are dim at low engine speeds.

Look to the alternator for problems. Take the car to your mechanic to have the alternator checked for proper operation.
Check for loose wires going to the alternator. Also check for corrosion, as this will inhibit the alternator from charging properly.
Check the tension on the alternator belt. If it is too loose, the belt may slip and not drive the alternator properly

As you can see there are plenty of things to go wrong with the charging system and it is always best to take the car to your mechanic and have it tested before you go replacing parts blindly.

Preventing problems with your car's electrical system:

Replace your battery every 4 years as a safety measure. It will save allot of headaches down the road.
If your battery is not a sealed unit, check fluid levels in each cell. Only fill with distilled water and be careful around the acid, which is in the battery.
Check your alternator belt frequently for cracks and tension. Replace per your cars manufacturers recommendations.
Clean your battery connections at least once a year. Car stores sell a handy terminal cleaner which is basically a round metal wire brush, which works great. Once you re-attach the terminals, coat them with a layer of heavy grease or special purpose grease sold at car stores. This layer will block the air from reacting with the connectors and creating corrosion.

How to jump start your car:

Jump-starting your car is not a difficult task. First lay out the cables on the ground between the two cars. Make sure that the cable is not twisted or tangled and none of the end clamps are touching each other. You should make sure that the car with the good battery is running.

Step 1: Take the positive (red) clamp closest to the car with the good battery and hook it to the positive terminal of that car. The positive terminal will have a + sign on it and usually a red wire running to it.

Step 2: Repeat this step on the car with the bad battery, hooking up the positive clamp to the positive terminal on the battery. Make sure the clamps are contacting well and can not fall off.

Step 3: Take the negative cable (black) closest to the car with the good battery and hook it to the negative terminal of the battery. The negative terminal will have a - sign and usually a black wire running to it.

Step 4: This is the last step and the most important. Take the negative clamp closest to the car with the bad battery and attach it to a bare metal part of the engine. DO NOT hook it to the battery negative terminal as there maybe hydrogen gas present from the battery and a spark from the connection could cause an explosion.

That's it...... turn the key on the dead car and the car should start. If it does not, try revving the engine on the good car to boost the pwer coming from the alternator. If this does not work, try wiggling the cables to assure you have a good connection. GOOD sets of jumper cables are a necessity. I have had cheaper sets not jump-start a dead car. I actually had to double up two cheap sets to get enough current to start my car. The cheaper sets will have thinner cables, which have a higher electrical resistance and cannot carry enough current to start some stalled cars. I would suggest buying a cable, which has 4,6 or 8-gauge wire.

The Car Cooling System

2006-01-28T21:08:00.000+08:00

The function of the engine's cooling system is to remove excess heat from the engine, to keep the engine operating at the most efficient temperature, and to allow the engine to reach its ideal operation temperature in the shortest time possible. In an ideal world, the cooling system keeps the engine running at its most efficient temperature no matter what the operating conditions are.

As petrol is burned in the engine, about one-third of the energy in the fuel is converted into power. Another third goes out the exhaust pipe unused, and the remaining third becomes heat energy.

A cooling system of some kind is necessary in any internal combustion engine. If no cooling system were provided, parts would melt from the heat of the burning petrol, and the pistons would expand so much they could not move in the cylinders (called "seize").

The cooling system of a water-cooled engine consists of:

the engine's water jacket
thermostat
water pump
radiator and radiator cap
cooling fan (electric or belt-driven)
hoses
heater core
expansion (overflow) tank

Burning of fuel in an engines produce very large amounts of heat and pressure; temperatures can reach up to 4,000 degrees F in the engine when the air/petrol mix is in certain proportions correctly. Under normal operating conditions the temperature is about 2,000 degrees F. The cooling system removes around 1/3 of all the heat that is produced in the engine combustion chamber.

The exhaust system also takes away much of the heat, but parts of the engine, such as the cylinder walls, pistons, and cylinder head, absorb large amounts of the heat. If a part of the engine gets too hot, the oil film will burn away and thus fail to protect it. This lack of lubrication can quickly destroy a car engine.

On the other side, if an engine runs at too low a temperature, it loses efficiency, the oil starts to get dirty (adding wear and reducing power output), deposits form, and fuel mileage is poor-- not to mention poor exhaust emissions! For these reasons, the cooling system only comes into action when the engine has heated up to its optimal temperature.

Type of Car Engine Cooling System

There are two types of cooling systems; liquid cooling and air cooling. Most auto engines are cooled by the liquid type; air cooling is used more frequently for airplanes, motorcycles and lawnmowers.

Liquid Cooled Engines

Liquid cooled engines have passages for the liquid, or coolant, through the cylinder block and head. The coolant has to have indirect contact with such engine parts as the combustion chamber, the cylinder walls, and the valve seats and guides. Running through the passages in the engine heats the coolant (it absorbs the heat from the engine parts), and going through the radiator cools it. After getting "cool" again in the radiator, the coolant comes back through the engine. This business continues as long as the engine is running, with the coolant absorbing and removing the engine's heat, and the radiator cooling the coolant.

A cooling system pressure tester is used to check the pressure in the cooling system, which allows the mechanic to determine if the system has any slow leaks. The leak can then be found and fixed before it causes a major problem.

Common Engine Cooling Problems:

Let's look at the common problems cars have with the cooling system.

Broken tubing. Hoses and tubing wear out and leak coolant fluid. Once the coolant has left the system it can no longer cool the engine and therefore the engine will over heat.
Broken fan belt. The water pump is driven by the engine through a fan belt. If this belt breaks the water pump can not turn and coolant will not be pushed through the car engine. This will also lead to the engine overheating.
Damaged radiator cap. The radiator cap is designed to hold a certain pressure in the coolant system. Most caps hold 8 - 12 PSI. This pressure raises the point in which the coolant will boil and maintains a good, stable system. If your cap does not hold enough pressure, then the car engine could overheat on hot days since the system never becomes pressurised.
Water pump failure. Most commonly you will hear a horrible screeching noise and will be able to see engine coolant leaking from the front of the pump or underneath the car. Often there are early signs of trouble with small spots of coolant under the car after being parked overnight and a strong coolant odor whilst you are driving.
Head gasket. Do you have large amounts of white smoke flowing out of your exhaust? Then you could have a problem with your head gasket. The head gasket seals the cylinder head to the engine block and also seals the coolant passages. When this gasket fails coolant can enter the cylinder and it will be turned to vapor as the engine fires. Head gaskets most often fail after the engine has overheated in the past. When very hot, the cylinder head can warp and prevent the engine head gasket from sealing properly.

Preventive Maintenance on Engine Cooling Systems

Check all belts and hoses regularly. (at oil change is a good time)
Look out for coolant leaks underneath the car, they could be signs of trouble to come.
Change your coolant every 2 - 3 years depending on the manufactorers recommendations.
Inspect your radiator cap for deterioration of the rubber seal. Replace if you think it is worn. $5 - $10 is cheap insurance.
Have your coolant system flushed every 5 years. It gets all the corrosion which has built up out of the system.

Checking Car Fluid Levels

2006-01-27T21:44:00.000+08:00

Keeping your vehicle in tip-top shape requires constant monitoring of vital fluids. Read you owners manual and look for a diagram of the engine. Most times there will be a diagram showing where to check all the major fluids. This should be your starting point. If your manual is lost in the glove box or you never had one, then ask your mechanic or a friend who knows cars to show you all the places to check. There are 4 major levels to check on most cars.

Car Engine oil

Usually towards the front of the engine and marked "OIL" Always check your oil level with the engine OFF. Remove the dipstick and wipe the oil off with the rag or towel then put the dipstick back into the hole. Now pull out and get a reading. You might have to hold the dipstick to the light to get a good reading as fresh oil can sometimes be hard to see. On the dipstick there will be two marks indicating a maximum and minimum level for the oil. Make it a habit of checking your oil every two weeks.

Car Transmission fluid

If you have an automatic transmission then you will have a dipstick to check the fluid level. It is most commonly found towards the back of the engine compartment or towards the passenger side. You should find out how to check the fluid by looking at the owner’s manual or on the dipstick itself. Most cars have to be running with the transmission in park or neutral. Also the transmission should be warmed up to give a true reading. Make sure the car has been driven for a short distance to make sure everything is up to operating temperature. Checking the level is just like checking your oil, wipe off dipstick, replace, pull out again and check level. If you have a manual transmission there is no dipstick and to check the fluid level you must crawl under the car and remove a fill plug. I would have your mechanic check this for you once a year if you do not feel comfortable doing this.

Car Engine coolant

- -- CAUTION -- Never open your radiator cap when the engine is hot ! The pressure in the system can send hot coolant splashing out on to you. Most cars have an overflow bottle, which will have level markings. Keep the coolant between these markings. If you have to open the radiator, make sure the engine is cold.

Power steering fluid

Your car uses oil to assist in steering the car. The fluid is usually checked at the pump, but can be away from the pump in a separate reservoir. Like the transmission, this fluid should also be checked when up to operating temperature. Most commonly the level is measured by a small dipstick attached to the cap of the reservoir.

Car Brake fluid

On most newer cars you can check brake fluid level without removing the cap on the master cylinder. There will be level markings on the side of the plastic reservoir. If you have to remove the cover to check the fluid level, be careful not to spill any fluid on the surrounding paint. Brake fluid makes a nice paint remover :-)

Windshield washer fluid

That's the magic blue liquid that squirts out of your hood. Most reservoirs have the level marked on the side but some newer cars have them buried underneath everything so you can not see. Just fill to the top, there is no harm in overfilling.
If you need to add any fluids to bring the levels up, a funnel is helpful to avoid spills. Keep track of how often you add oil, and transmission fluid. Frequent additions can point to leaks and engine wear.

Car Fluid Levels

Give your car a quick check up and ensure that all of its fluid levels are at the correct level. Including oil, engine coolant, brake fluids, power steering and even the window washers.

Car Tools For The DIY'er

2006-01-26T23:06:00.000+08:00

If you are a car owner who occasionally works on his or her own car, please don't go out and spend thousands of dollars on high priced tools. Professional mechanics make a living with their tools and need the best. If you are doing minor repairs on your own vehicles a lower cost tool set will do just fine. We have teamed up with carBarn.com to bring you the best price on tools for the DIYer. Keep in mind you can find most of these tools at your local parts store, but probably not at these prices. Let's look at the basics you will need for most common jobs.

The car oil change:

Car Lifting tools:

To gain access to the oil pan you need to get the front wheels off of the ground safely. Never leave the car supported only by a jack. A good set of jack stands or ramps are the safest way to go. Also don't forget to chock up the rear wheels to keep the car from sliding back. Even though you may have the emergency brake set, they can fail.

Oil filter spanner:

Nothing is more frustrating than trying to get an oil filter off without the right spanner. I have gone to the extent of poking a screwdriver through the filter to spin it off..... this is not the cleanest way to change an oil filter.

Funnel:

You have to get the new oil into the engine, and the less you spill, the less will burn off later while driving. Any funnel will do, but look for one with a long flexible neck, which will help getting into those tight places.

The brake job:

Disc brakes:

You will need some special hex or torx sockets to get the caliper loose. Do not try using the wrong tool like a vise-grips or filed down bit.... you will damage the bolts. You will also need to retract the brake pistons once you have the old pads out. Using a C-clamp does work, but you have to be careful not to damage the pistons.

Drum brakes:

There are special tools, which allow you to remove the clips, which hold the shoes to the backing plate. Also you will need an adjuster to adjust the shoes once you have everything back together.

Bleeding the brakes:

Get a good kit, which includes a sealed container to collect the expelled brake fluid.

General car tools:

A good Quality Tool Set:

Make sure you have metric spanneres as all import cars have metric fasteners and most if not all-new domestic cars do also. If you plan on doing advanced work, or plan on eventually working as a professional mechanic consider buying a set of Craftsman tools. I have found them to be the best value and you cannot beat the lifetime guarantee. Plus wherever you are, there is a Sears store to take your broken tools in for replacement.

Car Repair Manual:

You wouldn't bake a cake without a recipe.... would you?? Make sure you have a manual by your side before you start working on your car. I can only give you general guidelines, but the manual will give you all of the specifics for your car, truck or SUV.

How Your Cars Suspension Works

2006-01-25T22:19:00.000+08:00

"Suspension," when discussing cars, refers to the use of front and rear springs to suspend a vehicle's "sprung" weight. The springs used on today's cars and trucks are constructed in a variety of types, shapes, sizes, rates, and capacities. Types include leaf springs, coil springs, air springs, and torsion bars. These are used in sets of four for each vehicle, or they may be paired off in various combinations and are attached by several different mounting techniques. The suspension system also includes shocks and/or struts, and sway bars.

The Development of Car Suspension

Back in the earliest days of automobile development, when most of the car's weight (including the engine) was on the rear axle, steering was a simple matter of turning a tiller that pivoted the entire front axle. When the engine was moved to the front of the car, complex steering systems had to evolve. The modern automobile has come a long way since the days when "being self-propelled" was enough to satisfy the car owner. Improvements in suspension and steering, increased strength and durability of components, and advances in tire design and construction have made large contributions to riding comfort and to safe driving.

Cadillac allegedly produced the first American car to use a steering wheel instead of a tiller.

Car Steering Systems

Two of the most common steering mechanisms are the "rack and pinion" and the standard (or recirculating-ball) systems that can be either manual or assisted by power. The rack and pinion was designed for sports cars and requires too much driver muscle at low speeds to be very useful in larger, heavier cars. However, power steering makes a heavy car respond easily to the steering wheel, whether at highway speeds or inching into a narrow parking place, and it is normal equipment for large automobiles.

The Function of Car Suspension

The suspension system has two basic functions, to keep the car's wheels in firm contact with the road and to provide a comfortable ride for the passengers. A lot of the system's work is done by the springs. Under normal conditions, the springs support the body of the car evenly by compressing and rebounding with every up-and-down movement. This up-and-down movement, however, causes bouncing and swaying after each bump and is very uncomfortable to the passenger. These undesirable effects are reduced by the shock absorbers.

Common Suspension Problems:

Shocks and struts can wear out and affect handling. If you car bounces excessively over bumps and leans hard in corners, your shocks could be warn. Look behind the wheel for the shock or strut and look for leaking oil. This is a sure sign of a worn shock or strut.
Ball joints. Ball joints wear and can cause your car to wander while driving down the road. This is dangerous as they can separate and cause you to lose control.
Preventive maintenance:
Check your shocks or struts for leakage frequently. Also pay attention to how your car handles. If you notice the ride deteriorating take your car in to have the struts checked.
Ball joints should be checked when your car is inspected, if not, have your mechanic check them at least twice a year.
At each oil change make sure you or your mechanic lubricates the ball joints and any other suspension components. Some components cannot be lubricated as they are sealed from the factory.

Your Car Fuel System

2006-01-24T22:23:00.000+08:00

The car fuel system feeds your engine the gasoline/diesel it needs to run. If anyone of the parts in the system break down your engine will not run. Let's look at the major parts of the fuel system:

Fuel tank:

Basically a holding tank for your fuel. When you fill up at a petrol station the petrol travels down the filler tube and into the tank. In the tank there is a sending unit, which tells the petrol gauge how much petrol is in the tank.

Fuel pump:

On newer cars the fuel pump is usually installed in the fuel tank. Older cars have the fuel pump attached to the engine or on the frame rail between the tank and the engine. If the pump is in the tank or on the frame rail then it is electric and is run by your cars battery. Fuel pumps mounted to the engine use the motion of the engine to pump the fuel

Fuel filter:

Clean fuel is critical to engine life and performance. Fuel injectors have tiny openings, which clog easily so filtering the fuel is the only way to prevent this. Filters can be before or after the fuel pump, sometimes both.

Fuel injectors:

Most domestic cars after 1986 and earlier foreign cars came from the factory with fuel injection. Instead of a carburetor to mix the fuel and air, a computer controls when the fuel injectors open to let fuel into the engine. This has resulted in lower emissions and better fuel economy. The fuel injector is basically a tiny electric valve, which opens and closes with an electric signal. In the picture below you can see the injectors towards the outer part of the intake. By injecting the fuel close to the cylinder head the fuel stays atomized ( in tiny particles ) so it will burn better when ignited by the spark plug.

Carburetors:

A carburetor takes the fuel and mixes it with air without computer intervention. While simple in operation, they tend to need frequent tuning and rebuilding. This is why most newer cars have done away with carburetors in favor of fuel injection.

Common Car Fuel System Problems:

I would say the most common problem is a clogged fuel filter. Make sure you follow your manufacturers recommendations as to when you should change the fuel filter. This information should be in your owner’s manual. Symptoms include sputtering at high speeds or engine not starting at all. Always check the ignition system first, if that's ok then the next suspect is the fuel filter.

Next most common problem is the fuel pump failing. Most modern electric fuel pumps can be heard when you turn the key on. If you don't hear the pump running and your car will not start, it could be your fuel pump. The first thing a mechanic will check is the relay, which sends power to the pump. If this is operating correctly then the pump will have to be replaced.

Last but not least are dirty injectors. While the fuel filter does a good job of filtering the fuel, it's not perfect. Over time deposits and tiny particles lodge themselves in the injectors. This can clog and injector and prevent it from delivering the fuel the engine needs. It can also cause an injector to stick open and send too much fuel into the engine. A regular addition of fuel system cleaner like STP Injector Cleaner, or Techtron fuel system cleaner can help keep your injectors clean. Most petrol stations, department stores and all automotive parts stores will have a good cleaner available. Add it to your empty tank right before you fill up and it will clean as you drive. I recommend doing this every 3 months to keep your injectors performing like new. Mechanics also offer a cleaning service where they actually disconnect the fuel line and flush cleaner through the engine. This is only necessary when you let your injectors get to a point where they can not be cleaned by a store-bought product. Regular use of a good in-tank cleaner will keep you from having to pay for this service.

Where do you buy your petrol?

Believe it, or not, it can make a difference. Always buy from a well know national brand service station. Petrol stations, which are not affiliated with one brand of petrol, tend to get whatever is left at the end of the day from the delivery truck. One day them might get Texaco, and Exxon another. Also water mixed with petrol will cause problems with your engine. The engine will not run right, plus the water will promote rust in the fuel system. I have experienced this when I purchased petrol at some no-name petrol stations. Your car will feel sluggish and sometimes refuse to run if there is enough water in the petrol.

Fuel Octane rating tip!!!!

Putting super in the tank will not get you any more performance or petrol mileage unless specifically recommended by your cars manufacturer. If your owners manual says put in 87 octane...... DO IT. You are throwing money out the window if you are filling up on Super or Premium and you only need Regular.

Changing a Tyre

2006-01-23T22:10:00.000+08:00

It always happens at the worst times! You need to know how to change a tyre even if you have an auto club membership. Depending on where you get a flat tyre, there may not be a phone nearby to call a tow truck. Let's take is step by step and always remember to read your owners manual, there will be detailed instructions relating to your car there.

I would like to mention a few tips for getting to the side of the road safely if you have a tyre puncture whilst driving on the road.

You must stay calm, do not panic!
Slowly take your foot off of the gas and let the vehicle coast to a stop.
Do not make any sudden braking or steering actions.
Put your hazard lights on to alert other drivers.

Now that you are safely off of the road you can go about changing your tyre

Simple Steps to Changing your Car Tyre

Tyre Changing Step 1: (Stopping)

Make sure you are on firm flat ground and sufficiently far away from the traffic. If you are not, then try to drive to a more suitable spot, but only if you can do so safely. Try to avoid driving back onto the road and into traffic.

Tyre Changing Step 2: (Safety First)

Make sure your handbrake is on and put the car in Park or 1st gear if you have a manual transmission. Ensure that the engine is turned off.

Tyre Changing Step 3: (Tools)

Locate the spare tyre, jack, and wheel wrench. These are usually located in the trunk underneath the carpet on cars. Trucks usually have the jack and wheel wrench behind the seat or under the hood, with the spare tyre under the bed.

Tyre Changing Step 4: (Instructions)

Typically there are instructions printed on the jack or somewhere near the storage compartment. Read these instructions, they will tell you where to jack the vehicle and any special steps you will need to take.

Tyre Changing Step 5: (Getting started)

First remove the hubcap or wheel cover. The wheel wrench often has a flat end, which you can use to pry off the cover. If not, a screwdriver will work just fine.

Tyre Changing Step 6: (Lug Nuts)

Before you jack the car up you will want to break loose the wheel nuts. The weight of the car will keep the wheel from spinning and allow you to apply more force to the nuts. You do not want to completely remove the wheel nuts yet.... just break them loose. Once the wheel nut begins to move, STOP and move onto the next one. I often carry a small pipe, which will fit over the wheel wrench. This pipe can provide additional leverage and allow you to get those stubborn wheel nuts off. Always remember righty tighty, lefty loosy. Turn the wheel nuts left or counter clockwise to loosen.

Tyre Changing Step 7: (Jack the car)

Now you should be able to jack up the car. Locate the manufacturer jacking points by reading the owners manual or the instructions near or on the jack. Most cars will have a reinforced lip where the jack can be placed. If you can not locate this, look for a solid portion of the frame to jack on. Make sure the jack is on firm level ground and start jacking. Take it slowly and only go as far as you need to get the wheel completely off the ground.

Tyre Changing Step 8: (Remove Tyre)

The wheel is off the ground and it's time to remove the wheel nuts. Use the wrench or your fingers to remove the nuts. Slowly take the wheel off and set it to the side.

Tyre Changing Step 9: (New Tyre)

Get the new wheel and put it on the car. Tighten the wheel nuts as tight as you can without the wheel spinning. Don't worry about getting the nuts super tight, as you will do the final tightening when the car is off of the jack.

Tyre Changing Step 10: (Jack the Car)

Let the car down off of the jack and get your wheel wrench. Tighten the wheel nuts in a star pattern if there are five nuts. Start with one wheel nut and skip the next one until they are all tight. If you have 4 nuts, just tighten the opposite nut from where you started and then the remaining two in any order.

Tyre Changing Step 11: (Wheel Covers)

Replace your wheel cover or hubcap and clean up the jack, wheel wrench and blown tyre. If your spare tyre had air in it, you should be able to continue your journey. You may be organised enough to have a tyre pump that runs off of the cigeratte lighter in your car. If you do check the tyre pressure that you should pump to and inflate the spare tyre accordingly.

Finally: Remember if you have a temporary spare tyre (AKA doughnut) you can only drive a few miles to a service station and usually not over 50 MPH.

Power of X

2006-01-22T10:34:00.000+08:00

IS YOUR MOUTH WATERING YET?

It should be. Leaner, meaner and more muscular than ever before, the forthcoming Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution X is set to be the most potent “Evo” to date. With its bulging wheel arches, ferocious-looking front grille and menacing stare, you quickly realise that this car is not for the faint-hearted.

When it comes to the interior (above right), a simple, functional layout allows the driver to concentrate fully on the job at hand, while an LCD screen relays real-time information on the vehicle’s technical status. While this new incarnation looks like no other Lancer Evolution you’ve ever seen before, rest assured that the legendary “Evo” pedigree is still present and correct.

As with previous Lancer Evolution models, which have proved themselves on the world’s toughest rally stages, the motivating force behind this beautiful beast is a 2-litre, 4-cylinder,
turbocharged engine. Needless to say, the DOHC MIVEC power-plant in the new Lancer Evolution X has been developed even further, and is designed to deliver instant response – whatever the revs – and keep on pulling all the way to the red line.

A clutchless, six-speed, auto-manual transmission provides slicker shifting through the gearbox, with paddle shifters mounted on the steering column. While exact figures have yet to be released, expect acceleration and speed to be in the region of “jaw-droppingly quick”. Handling is also improved, and body stiffness increased, while the use of aluminium in the bonnet, boot lid, bumpers and roof reduces weight even further. Combine this with a lower centre of
gravity and you have extraordinary levels of roadholding. All in all, a nimbler Lancer Evolution than ever before.

And when it comes to safety, the Lancer Evolution X features the latest technical developments – in the form of Mitsubishi’s Super All Wheel Control (S-AWC). Based on the full-time 4WD
system seen on previous Lancer Evolution models, S-AWC adds Active Brake Control, Active Steering System and Mitsubishi Motors’ “Roll Control Suspension” technology, to create a
fully integrated system. As with its predecessors, expect the Lancer Evolution X to combine
supercar performance with everyday practicality.
Want one? Course you do.

Preventive Maintenance on Car Engines

2006-01-22T10:19:00.000+08:00

The engine is the heart and soul of your car, but instead of pumping plasma blood around veins, the engine pushes petrol and airl. The main focus of the engine is to transform the air and petrol into rotary motion so it can drive the wheels of the car.

Preventive Maintenance on Car Engines:

Change your oil regularly

Give your engine a chance to warm up before driving if possible. Let the oil get into all parts of the engine before driving. This is even more critical in cooler temperatures when the oil is cold and sluggish.

Change your timing belt or chain at your manufacturer's recommended interval.

Avoid "snake oil" additives as advertised on late night TV. Regular oil changes and good maintenance habits will keep your engine running it's best.

If you have a turbo charged engine, give the engine a minute or two cool down before turning it off. This cool down period allows oil to circulate and cool down the bearings. If you shut off the engine immediately after hard driving, the oil can gum up around the hot bearings and create problems down the road.

What to discuss with your car mechanic:

If you have to replace your engine, discuss the benefits of buying used versus new. If you plan on keeping your car for some time, a new engine might be the best bet. Sometimes new engines are not much more expensive than rebuilt ones, and offer the best solution.

When trying to diagnose engine noises, be as descriptive as possible. Take note to when the noise occurs; at what throttle position, and when the noise started occurring. Sometimes changing the weight of oil being used can cause a new noise to crop up. Make sure you mechanic knows if you changed oil brands or weight recently.

Every Car Enthusiast Should Drive An Evolution Before He Dies!

2006-01-21T01:11:00.000+08:00

"Hey, Dad, can I have the car tonight, mine's not running right." That's the sort of young-driver comment the 2005 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution MR is likely to inspire.

That's because the MR is — to make it as simple as possible — a family-oriented four-door with sports car performance.

It is so sporty that winding its turbocharged four-cylinder engine to its 7,000 rpm redline and making speedy shifts through its six-speed manual transmission will get you to the speed limit in a rush.

Torque steer has been engineered out of most of today's new cars, but the test Evolution MR generated some despite being an all-wheel drive car.

The MR may have a relatively bland exterior, but push the parameters of its performance, and you're likely to find yourself catching the attention of the folks who enforce speed limits. This thing will fly.

The MR's speed does not come cheap, although milder Lancer/Evolution variants are available.

There are, needless to say, quite a few family-oriented, sporty and utilitarian vehicles out there at that price. But opt for the MR, and you get a serious sprinter.

Turning the Evolution MR over to an unproven, young driver who hasn't had professional lessons or guidance from a polished-driver parent would be a serious mistake. The car has good safety features, including anti-lock brakes but needs a driver who won't take its power for granted.

Understand that what we're talking about here is a family-style four-door that can rocket to 60 mph in 5-plus seconds. Better use the cargo net for groceries in the trunk because the Evolution MR has riding-on-rails handling to go with its potent performance.

The interior has way more appeal than the exterior. Leather, upscale stereo and all the power goodies expected when spending this sort of money are all there.

Rear seat occupants aren't going to feel too crowded, but the front is more appealing and occupant-friendly.

For starters, the body-gripping front bucket seats are by Recaro, a revered name in enthusiast circles, and, once ensconced, the driver is going to be looking at a steering wheel by Momo, another brand that is appreciated by aftermarket shoppers.

Lancers come with 2.0-liter and 2.4-liter four-cylinder engines rated at about 120 and 162 hp respectively. The MR, meanwhile, gets a turbocharged 2.0 liter four-cylinder engine with 16 valves that makes 270-something hp with 280-something pounds-feet of torque.

The MR comes with red-on-black instrumentation that looks nice but can be difficult to read at night. Little else about the interior layout and trim is objectionable, assuming you keep in mind it started life as an econocar. Once up to MR status, though, the Lancer Evolution MR becomes much more than an econobox, and you, too, will agree with Automobile magazine's summation: "Every car enthusiast should drive an Evo before he dies."

Mitsubishi Evolution 8 EBC Green Stuff SPORT/ ROAD Kevlar Brake Pads

2006-01-21T01:04:00.000+08:00

Award-Winning, Kevlar Brake Pads

EBC Greenstuff Road/Sport disc brake pads are designed for sports cars, coupes and sedans used for high performance driving on the road. They are also suitable for sport driving in autocross, Solo II and many “track day” applications. The EBC Greenstuff pads feature a high Kevlar content formulation resulting in ultra high performance pads that are extremely kind to brake rotors.

EBC Greenstuff pads (friction level of 0.46µ) will be more responsive than most standard original brakes (typical friction level of 0.25µ to 0.35µ). Their high resistance to brake fade up to 1000° Fahrenheit make them a superb upgrade for luxury and high performance streetcars used for high speed driving or that encounter repetitive, heavy braking.

As standard brake pads wear, brake dust is released as the friction material carbonizes at temperatures found in everyday braking. EBC Greenstuff brake pads are formulated to run cleaner because they resist carbonizing until over 1000° Fahrenheit, so in normal street driving, dusting is reduced.

Features and Benefits of Greenstuff brake pads

Upgrade brake performance by up to 30% over OE pads, friction co-efficient of 0.46µ
Excellent initial bite resulting in instant response, no warm-up needed
Leading fade resistance on the street, heat stable to a blistering 1000°F
Extremely low rotor wear due to high Kevlar content
Low dust formula, great for alloys due to zero carbon content
Low vibration, smooth operation

Buying A New Car - Negotiating The Price

2006-01-20T19:06:00.000+08:00

Even with all you've done in advance, you'll still have to negotiate a final price, a process with many potholes for the unwary. We suggest that since you're Web-savvy, ask the person on the other end of the phone to e-mail (or fax, if you prefer) the new car offer. That way, you can compare prices between several dealers without being pressured by a salesperson.

With the best price in hand you're then ready to make an appointment. (Don't walk in without one.)

Here's where it gets tricky. If you're trading a used car, the final quote will be based on the dealer's inspection of the vehicle and its value on the used car market. What you'll be paying is the difference between the allowance for your old car and the price of the new one. But the dealer will be basing that difference on the wholesale value of the used car, not on what you may think it's worth. To make the trade-in price more palatable, he may raise the used car
allowance, then make up for his loss by increasing the interest rate or selling you extras you don't really need.

Not to worry, there's a way around this. Insist that every aspect of the deal be quoted separately. That includes the trade-in price of your used car, any extras you decide to accept, extended warranties, the financing and, of course, the quoted price of the car you'll be buying. Don't be dissuaded by fancy dancing on the part of the sales staff or finance manager. If anyone tries to change the originally-quoted terms or talk you into buying a different vehicle, just say "no" and go somewhere else.

Finally, the time has come to close the deal. There are still a few pitfalls to avoid, which are outlined for you in the final step in this series.

Car Shopping Tips for New and Expecting Parents

2006-01-20T18:55:00.000+08:00

If you have a newborn (or one on the way) and are looking for a new set of family-friendly wheels, there are a few things you need to take into consideration that you might not have thought of before. Incorporating these six steps into your shopping and test-driving will help you find a car that’s best suited to you and your new bundle of joy.

1. Buy your car seat before shopping for a car.

An improperly-installed car seat can cause your baby to be injured or killed, yet studies show that around 80% of child seats in the US are improperly used or installed. Not all back seats will properly accommodate a car seat, so make sure you bring your car seat to the dealership and try installing it. A correctly and tightly installed car seat will move no more than an inch in any direction. New cars and seats have the LATCH (also known as ISOFIX) system; use it. If you have a convertible seat, test both rear- and front-facing installation. If in doubt, your test drive should include a stop at a free child seat inspection center (links and phone numbers below).

2. Try getting the baby in and out of the car.

You’re going to be hoisting your kid in and out of the car for quite some time to come. For car seats with detachable carriers, put some weight in the carrier (15-20 lbs or 7-9 kg—they grow fast) and see how easy it is to get the carrier in and out of the car. If your seat does not detach, bring a life-size baby doll (or a life-size baby) and try putting the baby into the seat and taking him/her out. In some cars, this will involve getting into the car yourself one- (or no-) handed.

2. Stow the stroller.

Make sure the car has enough storage space to accommodate your stroller or carriage plus other stuff (shopping, groceries, etc.). Don’t just plop the stroller in once and declare it good; lift the stroller in and out of the trunk or cargo bay a few times, as you’ll be doing a lot.

3. Check the rear window.

Some sedans and coupes have deeply-sloped rear windows that allow sunlight to stream down on a rear-facing child seat, which could cause sunburn, heatstroke, or other heat-related injuries.

4. Check door handles and locks.

Time for the dress rehearsal! Get into full baby-carrying mode, with your baby (or surrogate weights) in the carrier or stroller and baby bag over your shoulder. See how easy it is to unlock and open the doors and trunk/hatch and get loaded up. Now, do the reverse: Open the doors, gather up the gear, and make sure you can easily close and lock up the car.

5. Take a ride in the back.

From time to time, you (or your spouse/partner/doting grandparent/etc.) may want to ride next to baby, so part of your test drive should include a ride in the back seat next to the strapped-in child seat. The seat takes up more space than you might expect, so get in, close the door, and stay there for a while to make sure it’s comfortable. If you’re prone to motion sickness, take an extended ride to make sure the back seat won’t make you queasy.

6. Don’t rule out two-doors.

Many coupes and hatchbacks have front seats that slide forward far enough to make plenty of room to get baby in and out. The Volkswagen New Beetle is a great example: It’s flip-forward seat and tall roofline allow shorter adults to get in and stand over the car seat, so getting baby in is easier than with many sedans. On the downside, coupes tend to have longer doors, which can be a problem in tight parking lots.

Long Distance Travel Checks!

2006-01-19T22:32:00.000+08:00

If you were to travel long distance along with your family it would be a good idea to check the following

Take the vehicle to an authorized service center. Request for a general check up where leakage's and damages would be repaired. Also worn parts would be identified and replaced. Special attention would be paid to Hoses, pipes & cables. ( clutch & accelerator specially) Fuel lines should be paid extra attention. Ensure all fluid levels are as recommended by the manufacturer. Ensure the brakes are looked at and any defects are attended to. Ensure all lights are checked and are in satisfactory working condition. Also check the vehicle horn for satisfactory operation.Make sure you give the vehicle for a check up well before you plan to travel, as if left till the last moment you may be delayed or the job may be slip shod due to the urgency.

Ensure that the tyres are in good condition and would stand the rigors of your trip. It would be a good idea to have one extra tube placed in your vehicle to avoid over charging and waste of time by road side Tyre repairers. Ensure the stephney Tyre is inflated to the recommended pressure. Please note that if the vehicle were to be fully loaded the Tyre pressures would be kept slightly higher.

Reduce tyre pressure by about 2-3 psi on high-speed roads as the Mumbai-Pune Expressway or the Delhi-Noida Expressway. High vehicle speeds on these rpads for long distances results in heating and automatic inflation of the tyres. If the tyres are already over-inflated, the hazard of a tyre burst is omnipresent.

Ensure that the vehicle body jack is available and is in a working condition. At times the jack spindle catches rust due to long periods of non-use and the jack would be difficult to operate. (If a situation like this emerges lubricate the spindle to get the same moving freely) Ensure that the jack handle is available in the vehicle. The wheel spanner would need to be in its place and secured like the jack and handle, if unsecured it will rattle and make irritating noises. Carry a set of open-end spanners, reversible screwdriver, a pair of pliers, torch. For spare carry a set of drive belts, hose pipes, electrical wire piece, insulation tape, extra fuses, and coolant.Always carry a first aid kit to meet any unfortunate eventualities. Try to keep the kit as comprehensive as possible.You may not know how to repair the vehicle but if the tools and spares were available with you it would be easier for a roadside mechanic or a good Samaritan to help you repair the vehicle so as you are not stranded on the highway. In case you feel that you need professional help get in touch with the Highway users club.

It makes a lot of sense to carry the Service Manual of your vehicle on long distance drives. The manual always lists the closest available authorised service station for your car if the need so arises.

Always pre plan the route you intend to take (eg. Use a state or highway map of India) prior to actually commencing the trip. WIAA is amongst others organizations that would be in a position to help you layout a route that would be both convenient and safe. You will be supprised at the different possibilities that would be available. Also you would be in a position to make note of refueling stations, service centers and rest areas. Also your family would be aware of the route taken by you and in case of an unfortunate incident of a brake down they would be in a position to help.

Fuel Saving Tips!

2006-01-19T18:07:00.000+08:00

Ensure that Tyre pressures are maintained as per manufacturer specifications. Over or under inflated tyres would mean better mileage or better handling respectively but will drastically reduce the Tyre life.

Adjust Tyre pressure when the Tyre is hot, i.e when the vehicle has run for 15 to 20 km. Hot air expands if Tyre pressure is regulated, when cold you will mostly have excess air in the tyres.

Try to fill fuel in the mornings, as specific gravity of fuel is high in the morning.

Try to keep the fuel tank above the half mark in city driving conditions so that a proper pressure is maintained. Also this will ensure that the fuel lines are always clean and are not clogged by the gum like residue of slow flowing fuel. The Fuel tank too will not catch rust.

Get the vehicle serviced at regular intervals from authorized service centers to ensure that the vehicle is in proper tune at all times.

Use recommended fuel additives to keep the fuel system clean. (Please note these additives have recommended instructions and applications.)

Higher octane fuels as X-tra Premium (91 octane), Speed 93 and Power 93 (both 93 octane) are recommended for cars with engines having higher compression ratios, viz., C segment and above. This results in improved mileage as well as enhanced performance. No additives need be used with these fuels.

Drive your vehicle smoothly and avoid sudden acceleration or braking. Anticipate stops to avoid harsh braking.

Try shifting to higher gears at lower speeds, especially in citydriving to get the maximum mileage out of your car. Ideally, one should be in 5th gear or the highest possible gear at speeds above 50-60 km/h.

Switch off your vehicle if you need to stop for more than three minutes.

Avoid clutch riding. i.e make sure that your foot is not resting on the clutch pedal while driving. This will reduce both your clutch life and your mileage.

While cruising at high speeds, ease your foot off the accelerator pedal just enough to maintain the speed while not keeping the accelerator pedal on the floor. This will ensure that excess fuel is not being burnt unnecessarily.

What To Look Out For When There is a Monsoon?

2006-01-18T22:04:00.000+08:00

The monsoons present an altogether unfriendly environment to drivers with wet and often slushy roads that are quite hazardous to drive on and heavy rains that lead to low visibility. In such conditions it is of utmost importance that you take every precaution to ensure your car is running as smooth and efficiently as possible. Here are some basic tips that can ease your experience while driving in the rains.

Check your wipers. See that the motor runs smoothly and that the wiper blades are clean and free of any dirt or grime that could have collected during the summer months. Also check that the rubber edge of the blade is not cracked or cut else the blade does not wipe the windscreen adequately often hampering your vision. Check that the washer fluid is topped up and carry newspapers as these facilitate easier and better cleaning of glass.

Check to see all your lights are working optimally including your turn signal indicators and reverse lamps. It not just helps you see clearly but also helps those around you know your location if there is a torrential downpour.

Check your tyres and see that they have sufficient tread. Worn out tread can cause your car to skid on wet roads.

Don't keep your car dirty for too long periods as the dirt that settles down can corrode body parts. If your car body has deep scratches get these areas treated as they can rust more easily.

Check all electrical components and se that your fuses are in order, that you are carrying along spare fuses and the wiring is in order. You don't want your car shorting out on a rainy day. Coat battery terminals with petroleum jelly.

Check your air conditioning system, believe it or not in cities with high humidity levels windshields can fog over and your cars cooling system is often the only thing that can help in such situations.

Check for signs of corrosion and get these checked in the early stages itself with some anti-rust treatment. Underbody silencers are the most prone to rusting.

Accessories such as mud flaps, car covers and floor mats can keep your car a bit cleaner during this season.

Drive cautiously and maintain a good distance from the vehicle ahead of you.

Drive slowly through stagnant water. A most common cause of losing control during monsoons is aquaplaning. Aquaplaning is a phenomenon that occurs when the tread of your tyre is not able to disperse water quickly enough for the tyre to provide sufficient traction. In this case the film of water layer acts like oil offering no traction whatsoever. To avoid this situation ensure the tread on your tyres is adequate, at least 2mm depth and that your tyres are at the correct air pressure.

If you do get caught in flooded areas slip the car into first gear and keep a steady foot on the throttle at high revs. This will help the exhaust gases to keep water from entering the tailpipe. After having crossed the water hazard, pump your brakes a few times to dry them out.

The monsoons are a beautiful time to drive with the clean air, greenery that sprouts from everywhere and cooler environment provided you do so with caution and loads of care.

Vehicle Offroad Tips

2006-01-17T12:17:00.000+08:00

If your vehicle is to be off road for a period of time you would need to follow the tips provided below

Ensure the vehicle is parked in a safe place where there would be no worry about falling objects.

If there is a problem of pests in the area where your vehicle is to be parked tie some naphthalene balls (Tar balls) in a small pouch and place the same under the bonnet, in the boot section and also in the cabin area.

Disconnect the battery terminals, to avoid any possibility of an electrical short circuit. Ensure that petroleum jelly is smeared over battery terminals to prevent oxidization.

If the vehicle were to remain stationary for a long period of time you would need to jack the vehicle up. Only an inch or two above the ground level would be required. Ensure that the jack is safe and will take the weight of the vehicle. You could also use blocks of wood or cement. The requirement is to take the weight of the vehicle off the tyres.

Fill the fuel tank to the top prior to garaging the vehicle. This will prevent the tank insides from catching rust.

Use a garage cover on the vehicle to prevent the paintwork from damage.

While re-starting the vehicle check all lubricant and coolant levels.

Get the battery charged at an authorized service agent prior to connecting the same.

Use water and a wet cloth to remove any oxidization (green powdery build up on the battery wire terminal). After the same has been cleaned use some polish paper to clean the contact area of the terminal to the battery.

Remove the vehicle from the stand if the air pressure is low in the Tyre get the same filled to the recommended pressure prior to using the vehicle.

Ensure all electrical connections are in place and no wires have been stripped or bitten by rodents or other such pests. If a bare wire is seen use insulation tape to cover the same. Also remember to get the same checked by a qualified electrician.

Open all doors and boot section of the vehicle and have the same cleaned with a damp cloth. This will get rid of the smell within the vehicle. Use an air freshener if necessary.

Start the vehicle. Do not rev the engine immediately after starting. The oil pressure needs to develop within the engine. If a cold engine is revved up it may cause a bearing failure and may also damage other parts.

After the engine has reached operating temperature drive the vehicle for a short while. Exercise caution while carrying out this operation. The brakes may not operate as required initially.

Read This - Car Breakdown Tips!

2006-01-16T18:45:00.000+08:00

These tips are not likely to be accessible by you in the unfortunate event that your vehicle may have a brake-down. However these tips are only indicative and will draw your attention to what needs to be done next. Also this list may not be exhaustive and some problems may not be listed. Please do not attempt to repair the vehicle yourself if the required know-how is not available to you. You will only ruin even the repairable part of the vehicle.
You must remember that there are both repairable and non-repairable parts to any vehicle. Also though some parts are serviceable it makes more sense to replace the same rather than repair (alternator, brake master cylinder etc.)

Vehicle stalled at home
1. If the engine does not turn over when the ignition key is switched on.
Check the battery. You may need to get it charged.
Check if the battery terminal is clean and devoid of oxidisation
Check the main battery wires for looseness or breakage.

2. The engine turns over but does not start.
Check if there is enough fuel in the tank.
Check if all fuel lines are connected
Check if all main wires are connected.
If these checks do not yield a result the vehicle needs to be taken to an authorised service centre or the breakdown van needs to check the vehicle. There may be a possibility that the Timing belt is broken or
Fuel pump has failed (Mechanical or electrical)

3. The engine starts but not fire consistently.
Check if any wires are loose, or have been damaged by rodents.
Check if all fuel lines are connected.

It always pays to keep the telephone number of the car maker’s helpline at hand. In the event of a break-down, the mobile service van of the car maker will come either to your door-step or your location of break-down and get your car started.